LFW: Jens Laugesen
20-02-2007
Jens Laugesen
What began as androgynous, with skinny black leather trousers and exaggerated capes, evolved into a beautiful and uncomplicated mixture of equestrian and Dickensian styles with double breasted jackets and ruffled collars.
The show entitled ‘Interior 01’ was named after the work of Danish painter Wilhelm Hammershoj and is the first in a trilogy entitled ‘Interior’. With the exception of some questionable leather jodhpurs, the show presented look after look of well-designed and well-made clothes from luxurious fabrics including cashmere, wool, silk and cotton. Black Mary Quant bell style skirts, the likes that would have been found in the window of her shop on the Kings Road, were paired with starched white equestrian shirts with high collars.
Black fitted blouses harked back to the Victorian era with subtle bibs and ruffles, waists were belted with black glistening sashes and trenches were uncomplicated with belted waists, full skirts and occasional detailing such as a line of buttons down the arms. High-waisted, short skirts contrasted with their ruffled collared, sleeved and shouldered counterparts whilst simple black opaque tights kept the look casual. Trousers were also high-waisted and worn with crisp sleeveless white shirts and sharp black leather gauntlets. Pleats made an appearance in the form of a black knee length skirt teamed with a sheer blouse.
Eveningwear saw a modern take on Armani’s tuxedo dress in a cream strapless puffball mini-dress and black bowtie detailing worn with leather driving gloves. The dress that won a round of applause was a simple black silk strapless column gown that was plain from the front but tightly corseted and structured from the back.
This show has to be one of my favourites!
By Suzanne Scott
www.myspace.com/suzannemariescott
