Rise to the occasion… indeed they did!
04-06-2007
The never-ending queue on Exhibition Road was a clear indication of how packed the show would be but I still wasn’t prepared to fight for a seat in the crowds of eager family and friends anticipating the up and coming creations.
Starting the show with the sounds of Kasabian mixing gracefully into this year’s funky answer to rebel music – CSS! The party had started! Following a futuristic trend there was plenty of inspiring ideas circling the heads of our grads… with helmets, high collars and long tailored Matrix resembling coats it was clear the designers of the future were working alongside the designers of now.
Layers played a large part in this years creations, but the variety was astounding – with distinguishing ideas the personalities were beaming through. From thought provoking evening wear of a backless tube dress layered like a crocodile’s skin to layered silk gowns, oozing sex appeal as they draped passionately over the shoulders in a romantic Parisian manner.
The contrast between the designs was enticing. A winter wonderland was created as male models strutted in pure wool tank tops decorated artistically in thick woolen balls. By combining such texture with tight tailored silk trousers it produced a dual sex appeal. Purple meets Pink in high waisted skirts and deep purple trousers produced a ready to wear collection for the rock and roll chic! But for a more adventurous character I witnessed designs worthy of a super hero! With close connections to the famous Wonder Woman suit a dream blue strapless dress with gold outlining on the brassier. These nipped in waists and metallic colours were something for all to adore.
Colour trend in classic black and white was used throughout by most. But it was the adventurous pumpkin shaped puffball suit that gave cream the edge! Daring enough only for a catwalk it was a pleasure to view accompanying complimentary puffball dresses which would flatter all figures and provide the perfect day/evening wear ensemble.
A 21st century woman had a chance to dress feminine in a man’s wardrobe… The use of deliberate over-sized scales with long shirts and crevasses formed a special bond on the floor. By using puffs of material scrunched on the shoulders I reminisced on a modern day touch of 80’s inspired shoulder pads.
Fitted shorts and tailored suits gave the city man a new look, adorning this style by many it was close to a young Armani himself. But the grads added there own subtle touches of skinny ties or tight braces forcing them to stand proud in the struggle of male fashion.
Completing the show with mannequin replica body casts the future merged with the present. Perspex chest plates promoted quirky alternatives to a vest top while floor sweeping maxi skirts and hot pants provided a summer touch. By using such a statement this collection stood out in a crowd full of 28 budding designers. All of whom I’m sure we’ll admire for years to come.
Congratulations to: Katharin Hermes, Michael Renzler, Nisara Liptawat, Caterina Cornaggia, Ruggiero De Santis, Gianni Tessitore, Giorgia Arcidiacono, Liu Hsin-Chieh, Rosemary Chung, Elin Viriden, Andrea Marchesi, Camilla Cuminatti, So Youn Lee, Wan Chun Huang, Alessia De Pasquale, Tomoka Asai, Silvia Acosta Palma, Adesola Alabi, Sazen Dernek, Maria Christina Georgiou, Nicola Anne Irvine, Carla Rodamilans, Linda Cherubini, Areeya Chotisuparach, Claudia Mariani, Federica Turelli, Luisa Fici and Angela Smecca.
The show was a complete success – as true inspirations these aspiring grads have allot to give the world of design, if this display is anything to go by the Istituto Marangoni is a goldmine!
By Laura Louise Frampton
Images by Hugh O’Malley
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