Graduate Fashion Week June 2010 – Kingston University

 

I was excited as I took my seat for the Kingston University Graduate Fashion show. The press seats were packed, I was lucky to get one and felt rather smug as others scrambled to find a space as the show started. I had high expectations from this prestigious design college and it did not disappoint.

The first collection to jump out at me was that by Beth Spurr whose garments represented ‘results’ from a series of ‘experiments’ to manipulate throw-on sportswear into imperfect, shaped and voluminous garments. Grey jersey was contrasted with patterns and stripes with the all important light reflecting strips. Voluminous grey parachute tracksuit pants were my favourites (I would love a pair). Spurr’s design talent has already been acknowledged with pieces selected by the editor of Dazed and Confused magazine and included in GFW’s top 10 looks, shot in a campaign by top photographer Rankin.

Also shot by Rankin in the GFW top 10 looks was a dress by Lucy Hammond. This was my favourite collection of the show, which opened with a red and black striped knitted maxi dress with the hilarious ‘I love knitting I’m not shitting’ knitted on the front. Certainly an attention grabber, I was transfixed throughout the collection. Following that was a collection of stunning garments knitted in stripes of orange, red, yellow and hot pink chevrons. Inspired by Sonia Rykiel this produced a fabulous dress with cut out diamonds down the arms which when viewed from certain positions gave them a zig-zag edge. This collection was lively and fun.

A collection which I found simply delightful was that of Nathalie Tunna. Also lively and fun but in a completely different way, Nathalie’s collection was prim and proper. Demure and restrained. ‘Just so’. Based on etiquette, decorum and poise, a quest for elegance and grace undercut by the delight of disobedience, this collection had a naughty schoolgirl feel. Garments were demure, restrained, neat, minimal and tidy with prom style dresses, high waists, smart collars and long skirts. Untouched by prints in crushed lemon, water lily green, lantern ink, ivory pearl, and shell pink, garments were hemmed in and reserved, juxtaposed by a playful undercurrent. The result is pretty and fun. A beautiful collection of rucksacks and satchels were produced alongside this in leather, beige and patent. Yum!

Standing out in the menswear department was a collection by Sharon Qin titled ‘Body Section’. Inspired by armour, looks insinuated puppets, robots and automation movement. Each look appeared to reflect some sort of character though out history but was translated into modern fashion trend in a desirable and amusing way. Key pieces for me were the comical thimble shaped tall hats and the trousers slung low below the bum, but with a traditionally fashioned belt holding them up with suspender like extensions. Ingenious.

One of the more risqué collections was sent down the catwalk by Sophie Hudspith. Opening with a sheer black layered dress exposing the models knickers I was drawn in. A selection of garments followed which created volume, curves and beautiful layers and included lace hole details and fine embroidery. Colour blocked in luxury silk knitwear of faded golds, teal greens and rose melange, a look was produced that was sexy and elegant. The final outfit – shorts paired with a teal blouse with layers piled on the shoulders – was divine.

The final collection worth mentioning was that by Naama Reitti. Based on ‘animalistic interventions’, plaits, knots and twists created sculptural body forms in this sensual and erotic collection. A mixture of luxurious leathers, silks and lustrous animal fibres layered the body celebrating the female form and its seductive environment. Key pieces included a stunning knitted white body con dress with knots and twists at the back and a dark purple cat suit with the cream knotted design printed all the way up the inner thighs and around the crotch. Layered over this was a cream cropped vest, completing a look which summed up the collection – sexy, animalistic, desirable.

Words: Tessa Ettinger

Images Hayley Kirton