Graduate Fashion Week June 2010 – UCA Rochester

As the final show of the day, I was feeling rather weary as I took my seat for the Rochester Graduate Show. Having already seen countless skinny trousers with structured jackets and big shoulders, architectural dresses, prints, neutrals, blacks and more, I was worried my flagging energy would deem this show more of the same. Yet this was quickly over-rided as I took my seat and was met with a runway covered in grey felt rather than the standard white. The mood was ambient with dim lights and music which took me into the warmth of a jazz club. When a pink-haired Zandra Rhodes took her seat not far from me, I knew I was in for a treat.

The opening collection by Alexa Papavasileiou was sublime. Delicate ‘skinsuits’ in soft pinks with floral prints, some of which included hoods were draped with structured and flowing cream jackets, dresses, capes and throws. One could only describe this collection as beautiful and delicate, with models appearing to have their fragile yet magnificent bodies cocooned by layers of elegant pieces.

A running theme throughout many of the collections that followed was simple shape. This was translated into menswear by Chelsea Bravo, who had men sauntering down the runway in sporty jersey with blocks of shaped colour contrasting classic nudes, giving basic causal wear a modern twist.

Squares and triagles featured highly in Gowri Jayaprasad’s collection in black with bold red, purple and blue. The shapes came in many forms including on headbands, but the piece which stood out for me was a simple black dress with solid black squares attached, not even visible at some angles. Over the top was a blue leather shoulder piece which had cube like protrusions producing a striking silhouette.

Even Hallam Burchett, whose collection of cocktail outfits was classic and realised solely in luxurious lime green, incorporated shapes within his designs. These were far from simple, taking the form of shaped panels of varying degrees sewn within each garment proving detail needn’t be brash or in your face.

Rosie Benjamin incorporated shapes into her designs by layering pieces of felt over one another in greys, black and purple. With music alluding to the Scottish Highlands, this collection of dresses was a lot more wintry than its predecessors.

Moving onto a more lively use of shape, with pumping rave music in the background, Desi Lazarova showcased catsuits and bodysuits in shades of grey and bright pinks. Standing out was a one shouldered bodysuit with a bright pink puffed leather sleeve and shapes cut out in grey, pink and purple.

Victoria Jolly used draping, layering, pinning and tucking to achieve shapes in her designs. The show-stopping piece was a pale pink and grey long strapless dress. Paying incredible attention to detail, folds of fabric were teased into rounded pink swirls contrasting a more structured grey piece on the bodice. The result was elegant and dreamlike.

Anastasia Verzoviti opened her collection with the more recognisable shape of hearts. Three of which were jumping off the models head (in the form of a headband) setting the tone as fun and cute. Paired with a structured mini-dress with big bold shoulders in spring colours, this was one of my favourite pieces of the show.

Following Anastasia, was another favourite collection of mine, most certainly ready-to-wear and with my name all over it (I wish) was Kimberley Crispe and her selection of grey garments with soft pink satin in shapes around the body. With loose cropped tees, an oversized blazer and tapered trousers, silhouettes were mannish, but details were feminine as pink shapes contoured the body. The overall look was sporty luxe.

Closing the show was Carla Grima, whose collection was the antithesis of the shape and/or structure seen in many of Rochester’s design students’ collections. A series of long floaty dresses glided down the catwalk, in blues, yellows and reds, which swirled together and flowed in a dreamy cloud-like way. The perfect ending to the Monday at Graduate Fashion Week, sending me home in a relaxed and sleepy haze.

Words: Tessa Ettinger