<< back to Trends

Textiles of Peru Part #4: Andean Goods Today – Identifying Quality and Authenticity 

06-11-2024   


As established in Textiles of Peru parts 1 – 3 the Incas held their highly decorative textiles in high esteem, and the fibres from alpacas and vicunas, in particular, were deemed as ‘The Fibre of the Gods’.

From using the finest yarns to incorporating patterns and symbols as a visual language, for the Incas their textiles would depict their wealth and status within the empire, they could be used as currency and were highly prized. This notion of quality and artisanal skill continues in Andean goods today and in this article we look at how they are used and the hallmarks of authenticity.

Traditionally alpaca wools would be woven into blankets, ponchos, shawls and hats, however since Sir Titus Salt, a spinner and manufacturer, introduced alpaca wool to the UK in the 1830’s, its application has expanded across the globe. 

As mentioned in Part #1 there are many benefits in using alpaca wool from its thermoregulating properties to its silky soft feel, however 100% alpaca does not bounce back and is therefore suited to non-fitted items such as tunics, shawls, outerwear and unstructured tops. It also needs gentle wash care and can be prone to stretching. For more fitted items a wool blend is recommended to create more springiness.

Today it is not unusual to find designs made from alpaca wool all over the globe, but for Peruvians the craft and skill is fundamental to their regional heritage. Peru is a global leader in alpaca fibre production and is home to 87 percent of the world’s alpaca population. It is therefore no surprise that visitors to Peru will often purchase alpaca woollen goods from a huge array of designs in traditional and contemporary styles. So how can you tell the authenticity of these garments?

Check the labels for official certifications such as the World Fair Trade Organisation and Global Organic Textile Standard. These certifications ensure a good standard of animal welfare, ethical working conditions and that the fibre is genuine. Other certifications to look for include the Responsible Alpaca Standard by Textile Exchange.

Real alpaca woollen items should feel cool to the touch, have a weight to them and a silky softness. Test for softness / itchiness on the inside of your arm or cheek, look for a light gloss and compare with items made from other fibres. 100% and baby alpaca can command higher prices so if you see a bargain then it’s probably too good to be true. 

Next week…Textiles of Peru Part #5: Peruvian Designers Taking Tradition Forward

Sources:

Nimble-Needles.com

jillianeve.com

Yanantin-alpaca

sewport

icea.bio

Solalpaca

Images from top: Julia Volk – pexels, Surene Palvie – pexels, all other images Jenny Holloway.




<< back to Trends