Milan’s New Season Details SS26
30-09-2025
With Milan Fashion Week (23–29 September 2025) now in the rearview mirror as the fashion pack converge on Paris, FashionCapital reflects on a season of reverent farewells, bold reinventions, and new season details.
What made Milan distinctive was its tension between legacy and disruption. On one hand stood the final act of Giorgio Armani’s legacy, a reflective farewell steeped in restraint, craft, and memory. On the other, daring new visions challenged the Italian establishment, most audibly at Versace under incoming creative director Dario Vitale. Between them, a handful of houses adjusted the formula just enough to bring a new take on the Spring/Summer 26 season.
Giorgio Armani’s Memorial Show
The emotional high point of Milan SS26 was the memorial runway for Giorgio Armani, held in the courtyard of the Pinacoteca di Brera. While the event was sombre, it was also beautifully orchestrated featuring models from across his illustrious six-decade career accompanied by a live piano.
According to The Wall Street Journal, the designs on display remained true to Armani’s signature minimalism: soft tailoring, muted neutrals in tones of navy, dove grey and sand fluid suiting, and shimmering eveningwear that avoided overt theatricality. Marie Claire and Vogue Business described the collection as “a quietly confident last statement,” a “tribute to the founder’s spirit,” and a show that “whispered rather than roared.”
Versace Under Vitale
By contrast, Dario Vitale’s debut at Versace provoked questions. Signed by the Prada Group earlier in 2025, Vitale’s inspiration harked back to early-80’s Versace, think sexed-up Miami Vice, with high-waisted denim, revealing cutouts, dropped armholes, halter cuts and body conscious designs in primary colour pops.
The response from the fashion pack was divided. While some praised Vitale for daring to lean in and disrupt a period of Italian fashion stagnation. Others questioned whether his vision bent over too far – and was missing the overt glamour synonymous with the Versace brand. Meanwhile, Donatella Versace, now operating under the title of brand ambassador, was no-where to be seen – what did this mean asked the fashion press? And what did she think of Vitale’s new direction?
Emerging Trends: What’s Next for SS26
Milan Fashion Week revealed recurring themes and undercurrents likely to ripple into Paris and seen at New York and London that will no doubt influence commercial lines…
Key Silhouettes & Styling Moves
- The Skirt Reconstructed: From Prada to other houses, the skirt took centre stage — tiered, ruffled, panelled, pieced into hybrid forms, or cinched with ribbons.
- Layered Tailoring & Sharp Contours: Trench coats over jackets, structural shirting under open garments, and modular dressing recurred.
- Pyjama-Wear & Loungewear: Dolce & Gabbana leaned hard into the “pyjama boys” aesthetic, striped cotton sets, robe-like shirts, worn as outerwear.
- Minimalist Lines with a Focus on Detail: Many collections delivered clean, pared-back silhouettes that served as canvases for trim, embellishment, or texture, including lace panels, fringe trim, tone-on-tone embroidery.
- Sexualised Cutouts & Exposed Zones: Cut-outs, sheer layering, backless dresses, low-cut tanks even the tailoring categories flirted with exposure for the body confident.
Fabric, Texture & Materiality
- Sheer Overlays & Mesh Layers: Transparent chiffons, organza, netting often layered over opaque undergarments to create depth and movement.
- Soft, Fluid Natural Fibres: Linen, silk, lightweight cotton, deconstructed wools — fabrics chosen for movement, breathability, and ease.
- Metallic Threads & Lurex Accents: Subtle shimmer was integrated into eveningwear or trims, not the full-blown disco ball, but subtle glints under light.
- Fringe & Tassel Ornamentation: Fringe showed up as both embellishment and structural movement, applied to hems, sleeves, and skirts.
Colour & Palette
- Muted Neutrals as a Base: Sandy beiges, dove greys, dusty taupes, and stone tones anchored many collections, especially in tailoring.
- Punchy Accents: Lime green, candy pink, electric blue, and coral punctuated otherwise quiet palettes either in accessories or statement pieces.
- Sorbet & Pastel Juxtapositions: Soft pastels, pale mint, lavender, blush, candyfloos pink, appeared in knitwear and layering, contrasting with staple tones.
- Deep Jewel: For eveningwear or accent pieces, emerald, sapphire, burgundy, and plum provided opulence and glamour.
Styling & Accessory Notes
- Scarves as a Statement: A resurgence of the skinny scarf, draped or tied with relaxed knots, silk scarves worn around the waist, tied at the neck, or worn as a head scarf.
- Understated Headwear & Straw Accents: Soft straw hats, wide-brimmed but minimal, appeared in a few shows as nods to summertime ease.
- Barefoot-ish Summer Sentiment: Flat, unstructured shoes or barely-there sandals were styled under longer hems, emphasising beach style ease over elevation.
- Accessories in Moderation: Jewellery, belts, and hardware were well considered and not piled-on statements.
- Contrast Textures in Looks: Leather trimmed with chiffon, knitwear paired with metallic accents many designers played with unconventional juxtaposition.
On the Street
On Milan’s streets, trends echoed the designer collections. Relaxed co‑ords, particularly shirt + trouser matches, were commonplace. As were striped shirts and ties along with checks, in top-to-toe combinations. The street palette remained relatively muted earthy tones, brown combined with black and sandy hues with occasional colour pops. For the more daring short shorts, bodycon dresses and cropped proportions also made appearances.
Sources:
Image of Giorgio Armani shop front by Alena Maruk via pexels.com
