London Fashion Week Begins: Sustainability Needs To Go Beyond the Catwalk

Today, 19th February, London Fashion Week (19th – 23rd February) presented by OMODA opens with renewed energy and an 11% increase in designers on schedule. Under the direction of Laura Weir at the British Fashion Council, show fees remain waived and 90 designers and organisations will present across catwalks, presentations and digital activations.

But if this season is to truly define London’s leadership in sustainability, the conversation must move beyond the catwalk and into manufacturing. Behind every responsibly sourced fabric and every upcycled silhouette stands a network of machinists, cutters, pattern-makers, embroiderers and finishers whose expertise bring these garments to life.

Designers across the schedule, from established names to emerging talents nurtured through NEWGEN, Fashion Scout and Fashion East, increasingly champion reuse, deadstock fabrics and responsible sourcing. Yet sustainability cannot rest solely on fabric choices. True circularity demands transparency in production and recognition of the skilled craftspeople who transform ideas into garments.

The UK’s fashion industry depends on highly trained technicians, many working in small factories and specialist ateliers, whose knowledge spans tailoring, draping, embellishment and complex construction. These skills are not easily replaced. They are built over decades and often passed down through generations. If designers are to promote longevity in clothing, the industry must equally protect longevity in these skills.

Bridging the Divide Between Studio and Factory

One of the most pressing challenges facing British fashion is the disconnect between creative studios and manufacturing floors. Designers may champion sustainability in concept, but factories often operate under immense time pressures and shrinking margins.

A more open connection is urgently needed.

That means:

• Earlier collaboration between designers and manufacturers in the development process
• Greater transparency around costing and lead times
• Fairer pricing structures that reflect the value of skilled labour
• Investment in apprenticeships and technical training

The future of sustainable fashion lies not just in innovative textiles, but in rebuilding trust and dialogue between those who design garments and those who construct them.

Institutions such as Central Saint Martins and the London College of Fashion, both showcasing at LFW today, can play a crucial role in fostering this connection. Increasingly, students are encouraged to understand supply chains, production realities and the economics of manufacturing not just the aesthetics of design.

The welcome return of Joseph to the schedule signals a renewed commitment to craftsmanship and quality with commercial appeal. While the opening day also marks the first collection under William Costelloe as Creative Director at Paul Costelloe. Adding his creative vision to his father’s long-established brand – built on quality and timeless construction. At a time where overproduction is under scrutiny, garments designed to last require factories equipped to execute them properly, and craftspeople empowered to take pride in their work.

(Paul Costelloe Feb 23 – image by Chris Daw)

True Sustainability Needs to Include the People Behind the Seams

(FEL’s Fashion Studio works with designers – start up and established)

With 41 catwalk shows, 20 presentations and dozens of cultural events, London Fashion Week remains a powerful global platform. But its true influence  may lie in how openly it addresses the realities of production.

If London can lead in strengthening relationships between designers and factories, championing high standards, shared knowledge and mutual respect, it could offer an industry model that combines ethical credibility with creative excellence.