LFW Feb 14: John Rocha
The theme cast fabulous contradictions that came together ingeniously: dark and light, sophisticated yet youthful, nonchalant and positively passionate.
John’s constant use of symmetry was this time displayed in equilibrium between two elements: the compassionate and the vigorous, the desolate and the elaborate. Lush velvets, winter lit tweed, patent glazed felts and leathers, along with hand made raffia lace and John’s signature silk georgettes, chiffons and organza’s were all key silhouettes that crafted the collection.
The dominant use of black was encapsulated in many looks, in which extravagant volumes and fabrications were presented, showcasing and reflecting Rocha’s interest in nature and its purest forms. Luscious elements included gorgeous oversized hats and headpieces, ornate ruffles around the neck, shoulders and bodices, as well as corsages that Rocha created out of organza. Immensely tricky to select a standout look from this assembly of dark creations, yet the first and last looks caught attention as they featured panels of fabric patchworked together with a crust of crochet that shined so bright.
The element of nature showcased itself through many other means as well. Shades including enchanting forest greens, shadowy garnet and forest smoke grey were witnessed amongst the dark blacks, delicate floral appliqués, tattered tweeds, lacquered raffia lace, and not excluding the glaze on a tiered lace skirt that formed a fairy-tale shimmer.
As one can appreciate, John Rocha’s surface details and sophisticated handwork is what essentially made his fashions so special. Hand crochets, appliquéd velvet winter florals and scattered cutwork leaves were the embellishments that exuded the heights of creativity, feminism and romance.
By Katie Farley
Freelance Fashion Stylist & Fashion Writer
Read more from Katie on her weekly designer review page ‘Katie’s Fashion Fairground’ in Industry Trends on FashionCapital