LFW Feb 14: Fashion Scout Collection – Kiev Fashion Days A/W14
Six extremely talented designers took the stage, demonstrating an array of looks that possessed impressive attention to detail, individuality and the upmost creativity. This seasons line up included Anna K, Krasilnikova, Lara Quint, Lera Leshchova, Paskal and Yasya Minochkina.
At just 18 years of age, designer and model Anna K was first up, with a collection that has already attracted international recognition. Inspired by the notorious article from the top fashion critique Suzy Menkes, it was this that led the vital part of Anna’s new collection to such a stylish success. A series called “Fashion Circus” encapsulated phrases, which stem from the common vocabulary of fashion devotees. “Uncross your legs”,”First Looks”, “I am on the list”, “Models own clothes” or “Do you want to talk to my agent?” were all slogans that adorned t-shirts and sweatshirts. It was Anna’s love for the fashion industry and its tiny details, which form its core that ultimately inspired this particular series within the collection. Other fashions embodied a sense of girlish fantasies, with silk dresses and chiffon, wide-legged denim jumpsuits and swing coats with polka dot faux-fur and gingham lining. Representing a vibe that exuded laid back chic with an elegant touch, the entire collection was totally wearable, affordable and. of course, on-trend.
The inspiration behind Irina Krasilnikova’s autumn/winter 2014 collection ‘Transitions’, laid in a subtle movement between illusion and reality, where 2D looks like 3D, and vice versa. For instance, what we see as fur is knitting, and what seems to be knitting is in fact laser implementation of reveling. Knitwear-texture patterned leather with integrated knitting seen in primarily black, grey and beige were the outstanding handcrafted pieces within the designers’ latest collection. With a new paradigm of designing clothing, Irina’s fresh approach to this skill involves using an array of contemporary technologies including 3D printing, laser and advanced threads and fabrics. Craftsmanship and attention to detail focused as key elements, working in natural forms to her looks and new ways of showing off the female figure. Cutout leather dresses and skirts, styled with warm chunky knits and skyscraper naturally shaped wedges were all highlights. The collection reflected femininity in an unusually and intelligent-sexy way, ultimately illustrating Krasilnikova’s whimsical panache of integrating sophistication and romanticism.
Clean cuts and volume, with beautiful finishing’s and complementing colour palettes indicates the main focuses within a typical Lara Quint collection, and her autumn/winter 2014 offerings certainly did not disappoint. Japan and in particular its female warriors were the inspiration behind Quint’s latest ‘Bushido’ collection, conveying “Phantasmagoric wild nature, kimono silk whisper and invincible power of spirit,” throughout. Sheer, starchy organza materials contrasted with fluffy, yet static weaved garments and soft quilted coats and capelets presented this expression, forming voluminous and over-sized silhouettes, yet still maintaining a sense of structure. With an injection of striking blood red, the muted palette of monochrome and camel was shaken up and seen on ladylike tailoring, all colours of which represent a relevance to different aspects of Japanese culture. The designers’ ultimate intension for her autumn/winter 2014 collection was to channel imagery of a female warrior, and exploring her innovative journey through shape and silhouette. It was a Japanese style assembly of works with a modern day twist in which we witnessed oversized kimono style jackets teamed with slim cigarette trousers, and not forgetting edgy boucle coats and corseted gowns.
A focus on elegance, highlighting feminine silhouettes in each look encapsulated the overall essence within Lera Leshchova’s autumn/winter 2014 collection. Distinctive features conveyed in the designer’s garments included pure, geometric lines and delicately organic draping. The lady-like form was enhanced by her grey, wool, cut-out shift dresses, whilst simple lines added interesting body to the oversized chunky knits in purple and grey that was evidently inspired by traditional Ukrainian carpets from the Carpathian Mountains. The collection also saw dashes of silver weaving on jumpers, tops and down the sides of dresses, along with statement accessories including boxy mini-bags that were bang on trend for the season ahead. Silver metal chain links were adorned on the sleeves of tops which complemented the silver weaving and added a different twist.
Julie Paskal was one of the more anticipated of the designers from the Ukrainian fashion showcase, and best known for its’ minimalistic, clean aesthetics that owe much to the rigors and precision of modern architecture. The autumn/winter 2014 collection displayed her trademark minimalism styles in a series of cage-inspired outfits. Black and fuchsia hues were seen on sharp, well-cut mini-dresses that were elevated by the addition of precisely executed cage like draping. The biggest fashion statement came courtesy of a pink cropped jumpsuit, finished with its caged cape and trim. Paskal creates designs that cater to every modern woman’s style requirements, something unique yet feminine, which was undoubtedly the outcome with this collection. Drawing from the garment construction, it is Paskal’s trademark laser-cut techniques and precise tailoring, along with its beauty and exceptional quality of the collection that truly excites.
An essential yet edgy wardrobe for everyday, anchored in the European spirit of comfortable elegance was the thinking behind Yasya Minochkina’s autumn/winter 2014 collection. As with most showcases, the modern woman was the key source of inspiration, accept this time it was she that was not out to shock but who aims to balance a career and bring up a family. The sport movement influenced the presentation, with vibrant greens and interesting textures, bringing the theme to life. A retro feel was brought to the aesthetic by boasting patent croc-effect skirts and tops teamed with knee-high socks, echoing somewhat of a similarity to Prada’s spring/summer 2014 looks. The unique capability to convey femininity to outwardly masculine designs is what Minochkina cleverly achieved throughout. Bold, block colours were used, with crisp whites, dark greens, bright oranges and moody blacks presenting striking, standout images. Deep blue and green leathers with metallic wet look sheens lifted the collection, bringing it alive n’ kickin. To lend a particular elegance to the minimalist compilation, the addition of an A-line monochrome mesh coat and a black turtle neck dress with a skater skirt was combined, creating a contemporary twist.
By Katie Farley
Freelance Fashion Stylist & Fashion Writer
Read more from Katie on her weekly designer review page ‘Katie’s Fashion Fairground’ in Industry Trends on FashionCapital