The Indicator – A 1970’s Slant
Already appearing in some of the current and autumn/winter 2004/05 designer collections, the 70â€™s, mixed up with a compulsory modern twist, may well be the decade to keep an eye on.
Designers: Matthew Williamsonâ€™s feminine boho look for autumn 2004 was pure Fleetwood Mac with lace detailed tops and patchwork fur coats. Marc Jacobâ€™s, a big fan of the 70â€™s offered a â€˜hint ofâ€™ in his autumn collection. Pussy-bow blouses, scoop-neck cashmere tank tops and culottes were combined with some very ladylike 1950â€™s pieces. Others inspired by the 70â€™s include â€“ Michael Kors, Blumarine, Sportmax and Karen Walker.
From the menswear collections look at the latest designs from Gucci, Roberto Cavalli, Alessandro Dellâ€™Acqua and Yves Saint Laurent.
Introducing some 70â€™s flavour right now is Phoebe Philo for Chloe. Her current collection was inspired by 1970â€™s urban Manhattan, think Lauren Hutton and Marisa Berenson for that fresh faced, cool New York look.
Shoes: While wedge-heeled sandals are making an impact now, just a few steps behind platforms are being cited as the next big thing. Platforms â€“ Alexander McQueenâ€™s least favourite fashion item ever – is making a stand as the shoe/boot of choice of next season. Poste Mistress has recently collaborated with Seventies shoe designer â€“ Terry de Havilland to create a range of platforms. Unusual stacked heels were also noted on the Fendi and Louis Vuitton catwalks and with Vivienne Westwoodâ€™s retrospective underway the platform is definitely looking up.
Dr Scholl sandals are another big prediction for 2004. Featured on the feet of Sarah-Jessica Parker in Sex and the City, Dr Scholl has teamed up with several designer names, including Celine for a chic and colourful makeover.
Streetwear: Already getting noticed at trade shows like Bread & Butter and TBC is a strong 1970â€™s retro ski look. Thereâ€™s quilted gilets and jackets from the likes of – Fire & Ice, 55DSL, Ellesse and Adidas, along with Alpine knit jumpers and cardiâ€™s. Nordic patterns such as enlarged snowflakes and reindeer also made regular appearances, while knitted rib zip-up cardiâ€™s look like a staple for the autumn season.
At the recent Topshop â€“ Unique autumn preview the 70â€™s crept in amongst other retro styles with a range of flat-fronted flared trousers, tank tops, knitted berets and skinny rib tops.
Prints on teeâ€™s and sweats often borrow from retro graphics, thereâ€™s already been a wave of prints featuring the Sex Pistolâ€™s â€“ God Save the Queen, next up expect lots of girlie erotica, guns, psychedelic patterns and simple logoâ€™s.
Popular Culture: Featuring plenty of chunky cardigans and casual retro styling is the latest movie homage to 70â€™s detective duo â€“ Starsky & Hutch. Coming soon, thereâ€™s a – Dukes of Hazzard remake on the cards, no doubt including plenty of 70â€™s denim, dungarees and hotpants all worn with a western twang.
Ossie Clarkâ€™s billowy chiffon dresses and tiny bias-cut miniâ€™s have been influencing visitors at the Victoria & Albert Museum for months. While the recently opened Vivienne Westwood retrospective harks back to the very beginning of the 1970â€™s, working through several decades of Westwoodâ€™s illustrious career.
Musically bands like the Scissor Sistersâ€™ and the Darkness contain a liberal dose of vintage 70â€™s, both musically and in the image department. Meanwhile, Peaches canâ€™t seem to get enough of hotpants.
Fabrics: Earlier this year Moda In, Premiere Vision and Tissu Premier exhibited a broad range of textiles for Spring 2005. Recurring themes included: stripes, natural organic wovens, subtle metallics and appliquÃ©d florals. Leaning towards the 70â€™s there were: bold floral cutouts, natural earthy linens, retro prints and patterns in dark tones along with lace combined with leather and suede.