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Pure Womenswear Pure Trends – Autumn/Winter 2005/06



{mosimage}The Pure Womenswear trade show can be an overwhelming experience for some first-time visitors. With over 800 inspirational brands split up into six key sections, you certainly need to do your homework. “I was completely blown away by the sheer size of the event,” commented a Devon based boutique owner. “I made lots of really good contacts and could have easily overspent, as there were so many great collections around.”


For those in need of a little inspiration Pure provided daily catwalk and trend presentations, homing in on distinctive themes while covering several market areas.


The Draper’s Trends Talk at Pure took a different turn this season. Instead of reeling-off key themes, fabrics, colours etc…exhibiting brands were invited on stage to discus their trend interpretations for this autumn/winter. Draper’s Fashion Editor – Nicola Wood, talked about the new mood of individual dressing. The latest trends are no longer worn from head-to-toe but are mixed and matched to form a more personalized style, this applies to a variety of market sectors. Wood also discussed how many buyers are combining forward orders with short orders to constantly refresh in-store collections, keeping in line with customer demand.


{mosimage}During the presentation she invited a representative from the young, funky brand – Chilli Pepper to discus their ongoing trend ideas. Taking note of what the customer wants designers at Chilli Pepper have taken best sellers, such as: denim pieces and gilets and refreshed them for the new season. “We’ve added new colours, washes and embellishments to our denim range,” the rep said. “We’ve also added coordinating tops and jackets to make up a story. Knitwear is very strong from chunky knits to fine gauze, while fake fur is being updated with the use of new colours.”


Another interesting development from the Chilli Pepper label includes a range extension called – Chilli Couture. For a little bit extra Chilli Couture offers exclusive items available from selected outlets, this season the focus is on handcrafted, heavily embellished pieces that stand out that bit more. “At the end of the day,” the rep continued, “we want customers to buy into the Chilli Pepper brand and that means providing a range that appeals for all occasions.”


Discussion over, and it was on to the Pure Womenswear Catwalk show. Here’s what mainstream labels are touting as the key trends for autumn/winter 2005/06:


Bits of Fluff Knitwear gets dressy from fine cashmere to open gauze, lace style stitching to chunky alpine look jumpers. Wrap cardigans feature pretty details such as – ruffles, ties, ribbons and crochet sections. Fluffy scarves and hats feature pom-poms, stripes, fringing and beading. While other knitwear pieces arrive in the form of long knitted coats, cutesy shorts, wraps, socks and hooded jackets.



Bits of Fluff Labels: Press image of wrap cardigan by Francisi Mahal. On the catwalk: CCDK, Leni Braun, Pamela Mann, Amano, Pachamama, Noa Noa, Kusan, Speedway, Cornelia James. Ugg boots by Spot-On.



Well Leathered Suedes, leathers, sheepskins and furs borrow from a creamy palette of milky coffee right through to bitter choc. Shapes include – bomber, blazer, biker, flying and gilet. While other key leather items include – studded belts, straight leg trousers, A-line skirts, wrist cuffs, bags and trims.



Well Leathered Labels: Press image of cropped zip-up jacket by Karma Designs Ltd. On the catwalk: Qubha, Suzanne Bettley, Sasperilla, Utzon, Stephen Collins, Marianne Vanderwilt, Black & Brown, Nursey Sheepskin.



Vintage Glamour The dominant vintage theme this season references the 1930s followed by a touch of Edwardian, the1950s plus a tinge of 80s grooming. Look out for elegant dropped-waist dresses, heavily beaded tops, bib & frill necklines, layered net skirts, floor-length gowns and handkerchief hems. While fluffy fur stoles, sparkle and beading piles on that Hollywood glamour.




Vintage Glamour Labels: On the catwalk: Tone Barker Silk, Jackpot, James Lakeland, Almost Famous, Mink Bikini, Anoushka G, Pyrus Japonica, Leni Braun, Cinnammon, Mais i lest ou le soleil? Ely, John Charles, East.



Trailblazer Continuing spring/summers boho vibe the trailblazer looks to the likes of Tibet, India, China, Mexico and Russia for global inspiration. Colourful embroideries and beaded patterns appear on full dirndl and tiered skirts. Silhouettes include – kurta style tops, tunics, kaftans and quilted mandarin jackets. Featuring details aplenty expect borders, sequins, fur trims, fringing and exotic patterns.




Trailblazer Labels: Press image of fur wrap and leather trousers by Karma Designs Ltd. On the catwalk: Tina Atiemo, Nursey Sheepskins, Uttam London, Zapla, Komodo, DB Leisure, Naf Naf, INTI Knitwear, Peter Werth, Sandwich, Braintree Hemp Clothing, Petivatsachen.



Prep School On a smarter note there was masculine appeal with suits and school uniform style. Tweed is still with us – this time around blazer style jackets, smart wide pants and cropped trousers are teamed up with crisp white shirts and stripy rugby look tops. Black is the main colour of choice with checks and herringbone adding to the mix. Keeping with the too cool for school vibe other key pieces include pinafore dresses, tank tops and slim single-breasted overcoats. 




Prep School Labels: Press images by Rajesh Pratap Singh. On the catwalk: BGN, MbyM, Qubha, Miss Outrage, Jackpot, Casch Copenhagen, Great Plains, Suzanne Bettley.



Other Key Trends:


+ Velvet jackets      {mosimage}


+ Cropped trousers and jeans


+ Lace detailing


+ Wrap dresses & tops


+ Ruffles & frills


+ Belted waists


+ Jodhpurs and city shorts


+ Layering


+ Fitted & lean silhouettes


+ Bracelet sleeves


+ Luxurious fabrics


+ Floral patterns and prints


+ Stripes


+ Earthy brown autumnal colours, greens, blues, berries, greys and blacks.



(Next season’s Pure is scheduled for 14/15/16 August 2005 at Olympia London)





By JoJo Iles  





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