Louis Prier Tisdall
The showcase began with Louis Prier Tisdall, the focal point of his collection on the amazing, floor length, sweeping jackets. Made from an array of different fabrics, and prints; leather sleeves and a silk body, crafted of an oriental printed fabric, the theme accentuated further with a drawstring waist. Navy was a focal colour, as seen on the V-neck jumper of models or on the sharp lapels of jackets. Tisdall’s collection had a recycled feel to it, the jackets made from scraps of fabric, and other key pieces embellished in a light netting fabric, reminiscent of a fisherman’s net.
This recycled; fisherman theme was carried on further into Holly Glover’s collection. The silk dresses oozed a washed up shipwreck feel, the silvery grey or navy; floor-length silk gowns featured hole and rips within the seaming and joints. The seams, manipulated in a way to create a structured look to the dresses, or two pieces. Models were accessorized with starfish shaped accessories – large body chains or bags.
Changing up the theme set by the previous Edinburgh students was Sarah Innes. A change of direction into sportswear; puffer jackets, chunky chains and a neon colour palette. Playing around with the puffing technique, Innes exaggerated these shapes through oversized sleeves, loosely tied round the waist of models in vivid pops of green. Colour was added further into the collection via PVC inserts on the sleeves, headwear and belts to create a change of silhouette to models. A look that wouldn’t go a miss on the streets of East London just outside the venue.
Playful music led the way into Lisa Berry’s collection. Oversized hair bows decorated the heads of the models, and shoes created with toy clips attached to the back. The long boxy dresses, which were crafted of a pin striped navy blue fabric were printed with large, cartoon eye prints, created with strings and pullable pockets, that when pulled by models changed the shape or design of the garments. Models played around with these features while walking the catwalk, ending the show by pulling 2 large tabs to reveal a pair of eyes behind a chest piece of the dress.
Bryony Strange’s collection was one of elegance, a colour palette of cream and whites, filtered in hues of purple and yellow after featuring tartan underskirts poking out from under straight, long-line coats and skirts. Necklines and shoulders were cleverly cut out to create a strong and modern feel to the pieces.
Louise Bell’s collection imploded onto the catwalk to a beat that matched perfectly with the theme and bold, electric colour palette of her collection. Vivid colours were teamed together, styled with black hosiery to make the colours pop further. The fabrics draped in oversized jackets, with large lapels and asymmetrical cuts to reveal beneath another pop of colour in a contrasting fabric, featured on an ankle-length tunic dress.
Salwa McGill brought bold modernity to the catwalk, playing with mustard yellows, turquoises and greys, colour was splashed onto the designs through a dashes of colour, printed leather stripes embellished jackets and trousers found on the folds of pleating on skirts. The pale blues and greys were the base colours within the collection the tailored, oversized pieces created a soft yet androgynous look. Cleverly styled, it was a modern and colourful twist on workwear, the collection had a lot going on, but it worked.
This androgynous elegance was carried further into Colleen Leitch’s collection (pictured right). The theme beautifully executed through floor-length fur and sequin embellished coats. Models faces were hidden under large black hats, bodies hidden under wraps of printed mesh and layers of printed, embellished fabric. Flowing trousers and long skirts balanced out the structured silhouettes the change and texture and hints of detailing adding depth to the designs.
The final collection to take to Edinburgh’s showspace was the work of Bella Mcleod, ending the show how it began, Bella experimented with an array of different fabrics and prints to create a final piece. A running print throughout was polkadots, a change in size and colour created depth and the illusion of layers to the designs. Dots decorated the shoes of models and small caps on their heads. An unfamiliar shape for menswear, the collection created oversized asymmetrical silhouettes with a nipped-in-waist, not your everyday look yet a fun, experimental collection.
By Zoe Barrow
Images via Edingburgh University