GFW: INTERNATIONAL CATWALK COMPETITION
Personal highlights included the Cuban and African culture-inspired collection designed by Adriana Perelli Gonzales. Titled ‘Afro-Cuban Beats’, the assembly of looks saw a beautiful blend of eclectic textures and lively, vivid prints that were amazingly adorned with hand stitched embroidery, beads, fur and fabulous feathers. Ethnic prints decorated black backdrops with orange, yellow and green tones seen on long-lined shorts and peplum tops, cropped trousers and heavily embellished skirts that shone with a sea of stunning sequins. The collection overflowed with character as the Madrid designer showcased a sense of humour with a playful yellow banana print on tops and trousers. Oversized, flamboyant feather cuffs adorned the majority of the arm, whilst the feathery adornment was also seen as decorative shoulder pads, ultimately enhancing Ganzales’ ethnic fusion.
Adriana Perelli Gonzales
A sense of modern armour and an overwhelming dose of ostentatious androgyny translated throughout Shan Liao Huang’s collection, which featured attires for both men and women. With only mostly strictly grey tones used, silhouettes were spectacularly oversized and reminiscent of Thom Browne’s Autumn/Winter 2013 collection. Shoulders, backs and legs favoured extreme padding that created somewhat surreal shapes, which resembled images of baseball jackets and trousers. In each look, singular sections of the garments displayed black and white graphic prints, whilst a distressed aesthetic echoed Huang’s overall tone that favoured a use of feather appliqué detailing, metal box bags and paneling. The use of hardy metal was also highlighted through leg supports, ankle and wrist cuffs. The collection ultimately felt empowering and warrior-esque.
Shan Liao Huang
With a clear vision of portraying minimalistic garments whilst exuding architectural sophistication, Sabrina Pilkati showcased deconstructed silhouettes that impressively shone. Extended from the mesh tops saw ultra high neck details, fabricated in caviar leather seen in black and scarlet shades, appearing alluringly mysterious. The contrast between the leather and fleece fabrics complemented the collection whilst the use of paneling and curve zip details demonstrated serious deconstruction and garment manipulation, portrayed in each attire. A cream coloured coat featuring extended, structured shoulder detail and amazing angular lines resulted in the collections standout style. The oversized glossy handbags are worthy of attention too. Encapsulating shell-like encasings, which essentially manipulated the female form, a colour palette of black, red and cream was witnessed, showcasing an element of striking elegance.
Madelen Ljunggren from ESMOD Oslo University showcased the upmost in textural creativity and design versatility. Parading a nonchalant, neutral colour palette of soft creams and baby blues, her collection of differentiating styles fascinated the imagination. With contrast between figure hugging trousers and high waist fitted girdle pants in relation to the billowing fabrications and voluminous silhouettes seen on extravagant padded coats and long lined dresses, the designer showcased surreal styles that appeared fabulously futuristic. Alien-esque vibes surrounded the collection thanks to skin-like trousers with an inset texture appearing like wrinkles, whilst oversized and exaggerated cocoon shapes wrapped around the body. Think puffer jackets and duvet covers combined! Relaxed, sculptural looks prevailed throughout, whilst shiny copper platforms added an extra fun dimension. A seriously chunky knitted crop top shouted ‘statement worthy’. Definitely talents worth watching.
Words by Katie Farley
Freelance Fashion Stylist & Fashion Writer