Katie Farley’s AW14 Runway Edit
Enter a carousal of colours, shapes, textures, and a whole host of innovative ideas for the upcoming array of fashions that forever comprise the new and unexpected. With the ability to prance perfectly from runway to real life, the new season adopts an emphasis on functionality and wearability, attributes witnessed in the following looks…
Modern takes on outerwear clothing are distinguished through the cosiest of fabrications; shrug-on shearlings and shaggy sheepskins perform at their warmest temperatures in preparation to face the great outdoors.
With a dusky, mellow palette of soft chalk tones, designers delighted in an array of shag pile styles in hues ranging from blushful pinks, (Emilio De La Morena) warm greys, (Eudon Choi) baby blues, (Gucci) and cloud whites (Isabel Marant).
Shearlings and sheepskins also arrived in the form of classic styles, seeing sheepskin coats and the forever-cool flight jackets reoccur as total winter staples. Standout styles came courtesy from Stella Jean’s conker hued leather coat with short sleeves and sheepskin collar and lining, whilst Sacai’s fabulously oversized white fur collar contrast against the blackest of leather provided the wow-factor.
The oh so fluffy trend also saw a new take, including an injection of glistening metallic’s seen on Prada and Marni; silhouettes of the sporty sort came courtesy from Alexander Wang and Moncler Gamme Rouge; and a dose of dazzling colour decorated sheep coats at Rodarte.
Adopting a nonchalant simplicity along with a love for all things decorative via naïve motifs and handicraft touches, folk fashion presented itself as a highly emerging trend on the autumn/winter 2014 catwalks.
The aura of this style may seem primitive but the same cannot be said for the detail. Exquisite motifs along with the truly magical techniques and touches resulted in what can only be described as craft couture. Folk finishes were imbued into autumn’s most adoring gowns – we saw scenes of florals adorned onto floor-length gowns at Dolce & Gabbana, an array of whimsical butterflies flying across
Valentino’s ethnical dresses and Alexander McQueen focused on fairytale on virginal, white lace layering gowns.
A fixation for fantasy came through, with abundance of creatures decorating knitted jumpers and jackets at Dolce & Gabanna, and whilst Stella Jean and Alberta Ferretti crawled into this category, they too along with Valentino, used intarsia knits and handicraft elements into the season’s cosiest pieces. It was all very dreamy, and also utterly desirable.
It wouldn’t be a proper autumn/winter collection without the sight of woollen garments to contribute to fashion proceedings. Forever an appropriate fabrication for the wintery months, these new-school knits adopts a dose of modernity whilst still having their handicraft heritage intact. Knits were taken up a notch this season with complete head to toe coverage – the knitted two piece transformed into total body coverage with sweaters paired with woolly leggings at Celine and Chanel; Mark Fast’s super-size scarves accessorized jumper dresses; Sonia Rykiel layered knit coats over knit tunics over knit trousers and teddy bear-esque woollens kept The Row Models extra toasty in a oversized, exaggerated matching jumper and trouser set.
A conceptual take on the trend was witnessed via chubby cable knits; chunky ribbing, 3D loops, swirls and frills decorated many vibrant, patterned jumpers. Such embellished styles were seen at Stella McCartney, Just Cavalli, Christopher Kane, Balenciaga, Alexander Wang and Jonathan Saunders. Many designers got that warm, fuzzy feeling when creating cocooning charm woollens this autumn that appeared oversized and extra, extra cosy in super-soft yarns. This created a soft silhouette whilst having a fuzzy finish.
Fashion Stylist & Fashion Writer