New York Fashion Week SS26: How Was It For You?

New York Fashion Week took place from 7th to 13th September 2025, launching the Spring/Summer 2026 collections and setting the tone for the global fashion circuit. The city buzzed once again with editors, influencers, stylists, buyers, and celebrities darting between shows in Tribeca, the Meatpacking District, and Brooklyn. But as the final looks walked and the reviews rolled in, one thing was clear – opinions on the state of NYFW remain deeply divided.

A Mixed Reception

Critics and industry watchers seem split on whether this season marked a quiet renaissance or another round of playing it safe.

“Too Boring” Say Some Critics

• A Washington Post review called NYFW “uninspired,” lamenting a wave of predictability: safe silhouettes, neutral palettes, and minimal risk-taking. Shows from brands like Tibi, Totême, and Calvin Klein were elegant, yes — but also formulaic, offering little excitement for those seeking something more cutting-edge.
• Elle India echoed similar sentiments, suggesting that many collections felt “overly polished and underwhelming,” with few conceptual breakthroughs or standout statements.

“A Commercial Powerhouse” Say Others

• On the other hand, Reuters and Business of Fashion highlighted the enduring business muscle of NYFW. With high-profile labels like Michael Kors, Coach, and Helmut Lang still drawing large crowds and significant buyer interest, the event remains a critical platform for commercial fashion.
• Industry insiders pointed to the week’s robust retail and media presence, affirming that, despite creative criticism, NYFW continues to drive sales, celebrity coverage, and brand relevance.

So, while the creative risks may have been scattered, NYFW’s economic and cultural value is far from fading.

Five Key Trends for Spring/Summer 2026

Despite the critical split, several clear trends emerged  both on the runway and on the street. Here are five defining themes that emerged from SS26:

1. Sporty Aesthetic & Jerseys

Relaxed, athletic-inspired pieces reigned, think soccer jerseys, rugby stripes, and elevated tracksuits. Designers tapped into a hybrid look that balanced comfort with edge, a nod to the continued blend of sportswear and luxury fashion. Seen at: LaQuan Smith, Palomo Spain, and Eckhaus Latta.

2. Minimalist Monochrome & Textural Contrast

Designers leaned into black-and-white palettes, allowing texture to take centre stage. Sheer layers, raw hems, and crinkled silks gave garments depth and movement. Seen at: The Row, Khaite, and Proenza Schouler.

3. Deconstructed Denim & Grunge Revival

The 1990s influence returned via frayed denim, oversized jackets, and asymmetrical cuts. Denim was heavily featured bleached, shredded, and often paired with elevated tailoring for contrast. Seen at: Dion Lee, Who Decides War, and Brandon Maxwell.

4. Modern Romanticism

Designers infused collections with soft, vintage-inspired details like puff sleeves, gathered necklines, lace, and handkerchief hems. There was a noticeable return to femininity and lightness. Seen at: Anna Sui, Ulla Johnson, and Sandy Liang.

5. Bold Colour Accents Amid Neutrals

Though minimalism dominated, standout shows embraced strategic pops of colour — particularly dusty rose, burnt sienna, cerulean, and sun-washed yellow. Accessories and footwear often provided these visual shocks. Seen at: Prabal Gurung, Tory Burch, and Carolina Herrera.

Spotlight: Bandolier x Kate Barton

(NYFW Bandolier x Kate Barton, this image and top intro image by Darian DiCianno)

Among the collections that bridged wearability and innovation, the Bandolier x Kate Barton collaboration stood out for its sleek, futuristic aesthetic. The partnership fused Barton’s signature structural tailoring with Bandolier’s functional, fashion-forward accessories, a pairing that epitomised the season’s themes of elevated minimalism and utilitarian design.

Barton’s silhouettes pushed past traditional tailoring with architectural folds, exaggerated shoulders, and metallic finishes. Bandolier’s sleek tech-accessories (cross-bodies and phone cases) became key visual anchors in the looks, showing how tech-meets-fashion collaborations can feel thoughtful and fresh.

For Spring/Summer 2026, New York Fashion Week didn’t necessarily wow, but it did deliver especially in its wearability and retail potential. What the week lacked in theatrical drama, it made up for in craftsmanship, functionality, and flashes of quiet elegance.