New York Fashion Now at the V&A
01-05-2007
New York’s synonym for fashion in the USA and host to some of the most prestigious designers of our time, e.g. Marc Jacobs, Narciso Rodriguez and Donna Karan has become the commercial fashion Mecca of the world. Next to these global fashion empires, the road to success for new designers is often extremely difficult. Due to various funded schemes and awards, extended press coverage as well as retailer and manufacturer support, several aspiring, and not necessarily commercially orientated designers have been able to make it to the top.
Among the many talented newcomers that launched their businesses between 1999 – 2004, Sonnet Stanfill, the V&A fashion curator, has picked 20 designers to showcase a selection of their work. She comments: “These emerging fashion designers have revitalised fashion in New York and this display will demonstrate the talent and the diversity of the New York fashion scene now.” The exhibition aims at showing design productivity inside and outside the city’s mainstream fashion culture.
With the names of different New York neighbourhoods on the showrooms columns and maps of the districts printed on the walls, the exhibition creates five themes and a special section for accessories.
Sportswear Chic is likely to be the most typical American style. ‘Comfort first’ perfectly fits the fast-paced lifestyle of New Yorkers. The women’s sportswear ranges from informal and versatile separate pieces to layering, shirtdresses and trousers. The philosophy of this mix-and-match style is nonchalant simplicity. Made of luxurious fabrics, the dressed-up designs pay a growing attention to detail which still makes sportswear chic the engine that drives New York’s fashion industry.
Designers shown: Proenza Schouler, Mary Ping, Behnaz Sarafpour, Derek Lam and Zac Posen.
From the dramatic glamour the exhibition takes us straight to the designs of Craig Robinson, Sean ‘Diddy’ Combs for Sean John and Christian Joy – all of which are Celebrity dressers. While Sean Combs is a renowned musician and hip-hop producer himself, the other two became known as the bands they designed clothes for became famous. Christian Joy has the vision behind the look of Karen O from the Yeah Yeah Yeahs. Her designs are extravagant, for instance a skeleton-like black bodysuit that needed gluing together while self-taught tailor Craig Robinson styled garage bands.
Designers shown: Sean John, Christian Joy and Craig Robinson
Avant-garde is showing the rebel pack of New York’s designers. Their unorthodox designs ignore all consumerist and traditional principles. Instead they focus on unconventional construction and atypical silhouettes. The designers give their clothes an edge by ripping them, using asymmetric cuts and strong art and political references. Or they try to sell outside of the system like Slow and Steady Wins the Race. The anonymous creator of the brand (which is in itself a statement) sells all pieces under $100. Although praised by critics, editors and the arts community two of the displayed labels were closed within five years of their launch.
Designers shown: Slow and Steady Wins the Race, Three As Four, Tess Giberson and Miguel Adrover
Also with a less commercial approach is the Atelier section. Devoted to artisans creations focusing on detailing, material and finishing the creations are truly one of a kind; handcrafted, made-to-measure designs cut and sewed with the finest precision only few numbers of the designs are sold: a modern day luxury. Fabrics include leather, suede, silky chiffons, thin jerseys and bespoke textiles. Korean born designer Jean Yu designed a contemporary cape dress that stands out for its sexy and uncommon cut. Creative freedom is guaranteed as she has no backer to please.
Designers shown: Lost Art, Jean Yu, Maggie Norris and Costello Tagliapietra
Menswear is more than the second line for a designer. The four designers featured in the exhibition show experimental designs for the sartorially risk-averse American male in form of trim and narrow 18th century suit reinterpretations, military or dark edgy rock influences. Some of designers like John Varvatos even expanded their range with eyewear, footwear and skincare products.
Designers shown: Thom Browne, John Varvatos, Cloak and Duckie Brown
The New York Fashion Now exhibition runs till 23 September 07. Admission is free. Further information on the designers is available online www.vam.ac.uk. For those interested in knowing more about the industry there is a gallery talk by fashion curator Sonnet Stanfill on 16th September 3 – 4 pm and a demonstration entitled Revealing the other side of fashion’ by designer and pattern cutter Julie Sissons on 8th July 2 – 5 pm.
By Christa Catharina Muller
Pictures by Nicole Winkler and the V&A
