My Fashion Life: Vanessa Denza Talks Fashion, Retail and Meeting the Queen

 

 

 Since 1988 she founded Denza International Limited, a global recruiment consultancy for fashion professionals, and if that weren’t enough she also co-founded Graduate Fashion Week in 1989. Her knowledge of the industry is vast and well respected, not going unnoticed in 2004 Vanessa Denza was appointed a Member of the British Empire (MBE) for her outstanding contribution to the British Fashion Industry.

 

 Today Vanessa’s schedule is as manic as ever. “Normally I am at work by 8 am, and sometimes I might work until 8 or 9 at night, I might be interviewing, in meetings, or travelling, no day is the same as the next,” mentions Vanessa. She runs her highly successful recruitment business in central London with the aid of her small team and two personal assistants.

 

 As well as her recruitment company Vanessa has branched out with Denza Licensing Limited, a global consultancy that specializes on building and maintaining business relationships between designers, retailers and manufacturers, with licensing or royalty agreements. Celia Birtwell is one of her clients, and thanks to a deal with TopShop Birtwell’s designs have been re-introduced to a whole new generation.

 

 Vanessa chats about the industry in a relaxed, easy manner, you can sense she has lived and breathed fashion for a good number of years. “I have to admit when I started out in fashion it was more fun, clothes were made in England so you had a quick turnaround. These days they are all produced in China, India or Turkey. It was easier to be a small designer back then, now it’s all about financial backing and the money side of the business, it really is very difficult for small designers these days.”

 

“How can you buy a pair of shoes for £6 and think it is ethical?”

 

 Vanessa has a canny knack of staying one step ahead of what customers want in the fast-paced world of fashion. Discussing the industry today she is quick to mention the ethical issues which have gained press coverage over recent months. “People are just buying too much poor quality clothing, 700,000 tonnes of textiles are sent to landfill each year and that’s got to change. How can you buy a pair of shoes for £6 and think it is ethical,” questions Vanessa. Indeed, she has a very good point and legislation in this area is well overdue.

 

 As for key market areas in need of attention Vanessa thinks fashion for the 40+ market is wide open. “Women 40+ don’t dress like old ladies anymore, they want good quality clothes that fit well. It is very difficult to find this in the UK. I buy most of my clothes in France where the fit is much better,” says Vanessa. To readdress the balance she suggests design teams made up of individuals from a crosssection of age groups, plus the old adage ‘get to know your customer’ which is somewhat lacking in British retail these days. On the positive side of retailing she holds John Lewis in high regard. “Their sales figures show they have got it right; they have good staff that know their merchandise.”

 

“There are too many fashion students these days, its quality – not quantity that we need. We do have some great training in this country but we are turning out far too many womenswear designers.”

 

 Vanessa co-founded Graduate Fashion Week (GFW) with Jeff Banks and John Walford in 1989. While she no longer works directly with GFW and has wound-down her hours in the educational arena, she still has strong links with Fashion Colleges throughout the UK. “I do think there are too many fashion students these days, its quality – not quantity that we need. We do have some great training in this country but we are turning out far too many womenswear designers,” she comments. “There is a lack of childrenswear and knitwear designers,” Vanessa adds.

 

 Picking up a MBE for her long-standing contribution to fashion in 2004 the coversation turns to the Queen and the ceremony itself. “It was lovely, the most efficient place I have ever been to. You are given full instructions of what will happen and when, how to curtsey. I tell you, if the government was run as well we wouldn’t have all these problems,” Vanessa adds with a hint of humour. As for the Queen; “she looked great in pale blue, plus she has a good figure and a flat stomach!”

 

 As for her company, Denza International has become renowned throughout the industry and across the globe. While Vanessa continues with a hands-on approach to the business she does mention the idea of easing out into retirement in the not so distant future. With her connections, however, I expect she’ll never be far from the frantic world that is fashion.

 

                Visit: www.denza.co.uk   

 

Thanks to Vanessa Denza for taking time out to talk with FashionCapital

 

Interview by JoJo Iles