LFW Sept 08 – Caroline Charles
15-09-2008
This week, with most of the Fashion Capital team attending Profile in New York, yours truly was the only journalist available for first day shows. Not that I'm complaining! For the first time I've graduated to the on schedule shows, and with LFW pass in hand, I'm off to the BFC tent!
First up was a clash between Caroline Charles and Spijkers and Spijkers, after calling in back up, I headed (star-ed, seated ticket) in purse to the main tent.
Caroline Charles is one of London's true home grown talents, having been in the business for over two decades, this women knows what women want.
The collection divided into 5 sets, reminded me of everything I love about Summer time.
The first set, appropriately named ‘Calypso' saw models draped in printed chiffons and silks in pink, orange and white hues. From tunics to shift dresses, bandeaus to bikinis, the first set was a cruel reminder of the Summer we didn't get this year. The bright candy coloured prints, soon moved into a far more ethnic collection with Moroccan inspired stripes, in warm, spicy colours. Prints were a huge part of the first set and was a great twist on last seasons tie-dye trend.
Sticking with the tasty theme, ‘Tutti Frutti' was next and the models, dolled up in ice-cream colours really did look good enough to eat. The ‘short' suit was the key piece for this section, with tailored city shorts and matching 60's cut jackets in pink, white and tangerine. Along with shifts in block colours and ditsy floral prints, this slightly retro vibe was both classic and extremely wearable.
As the collection moved on to Liquorice Allsorts (someone has a sweet tooth), candy stripes were based on black, and shorts became 60's style Capri pants. Belts will again be waisted in S/S '09, but of super skinny proportions, with flashes of colour, made stronger by its mixture on black.
The fourth set, ‘Check Mate', was a fresh twist on a 20's Jazz theme. With the collection taking a far more androgynous look. Beautifully cut, wide legged trousers, with fitted jackets and waistcoats, in both checks and chalked pinstripe, had a fun almost gangster New York feel and reminded me of Bugsy Malone. Teamed with trilby's and sleek brief cases and box bags, this was a city slicker look that I would happily buy into.
The final set was a homage to the classic Caroline Charles trade mark, the cocktail dress and aptly named ‘Strictly Party' and slightly reminded me of ‘Strictly Ballroom'.
The sequined frocks were presented in a rainbow of colours, with empire lines or empire detailing being the most common cut. The various eras of the collection were brought together here, with 20's style flappers and 60's style shifts being the shape for the coming season. Sequins adorned all the dresses, with some returning to last seasons full on sparkle style.
Whether the collection is what one would term ‘truly innovative' is a separate issue. What is clear however is that with nearly 50 seasons under her belt, Caroline Charles is a woman who knows her clients. The whole collection is an instant RTW success, with cuts, colours and designs for all ages and shapes; and who can hate anything so sparkly!
Words Rivkie Baum
