The best of Moda Lisboa SS2012
20-10-2011
Pedro Pedro
The Pedro Pedro show was a collection of separates and two pieces. The first dress had a paper bag waisted cut out in beige with a knee length pencil skirt, setting the show off to a classy start.
This sophistication continued with a palette of tan, black, grey, navy and white. Sketchy looking prints featured strongly throughout the collection with a regal looking horse motif.
Most of the collections bottoms sat high on the waist, paired with draped crop tops revealing a cheeky bit of stomach. Lapels and pockets were tipped with flashes of gold adding to the luxury while wide square shoulders created a modern take on the power dressing.
Lime yellow crept into the collection in swimsuits and light dresses proving a much needed summery feel.
Although the collection was gorgeously consistent there was much of the same with cropped tops and high waists – incredibly ready to wear, sophisticated throughout.
V!tor
V!tor’s collection is based around the gypsy communities, salvaging and is incredibly personal. The fabric, he told me after the show, is all from his own clothes.
On the front row, we get goodies! A collaboration jewellery piece with BIC biros that is a sparkling silver constructed necklace.
The show begins with a mix of all sand garments worn with jersey striped tops, hanging loose on the body and made of strips of separate fabrics. The stripes continue in gorgeous, wearable maxi vest dresses, tshirts and short vest dresses. Most are worn quite tight and feature low, slit side sleeves. The beige features in casual tailored jackets, a mens shorts jump suit and cute pleated shorts as well as a billowing cocoon shaped maxi dress. The colours vary, with a few clashing stylishly while many pieces feature colours on a theme with muted tones and a vintage look.
The wearability of this collection is high, the vest shapes, t-shirts, racer backs and tube skirts are all regular high street shapes to suit all sizes with a gorgeous handmade twist.
My favourite piece was a pair of diagonally striped leggings with flashes of mustard and burgundy – worn with sponsors Addidas trainers and a casual tailored khaki shirt this looked great, wearable and totally cool.
I am a huge fan of V!tors (he is my GFWBF… gay fashion week boyfriend!) and I love his wearable, trendy collections that are in-tune with what his young commercial market want and need.
Dawid Tomaszewski
The collection began with two beautiful taupe dresses, with short aline skirts and stunning crystal trim embellishment, belted at the waist and totally to die for. From here the collection just became more and more gorgeous. Magenta crept into the collection in the form of a gorgeous feminine maxi dress and also a shorter evening dress with stone damask like overlay framing the body perfectly as well as a pair of magenta cigarette pants worn with a white sheer shirt, the shoulders embellished with silver stunning concentric crystals.
Gorgeous maxi dresses flowed with sheer tops covered in the stunning crystal embellishment; a favourite crystallised item is a pair of leggings, covered in silver crystals, last night I saw the same in gold being worn by Dawids design assistant at the fashion TV party.
Another favourite was a stone coloured feather mini dress, completely covered in fluffy fine feathers and belted at the waist. Every girl in the room couldn’t help but fall in love with this princess like collection.
A little bit of green featured in the mottled green print as well as in crystal. One suit was backless except for crystallised green cage straps. Many of the dresses were also backless which is a trend emerging this season.
There were three main shapes in this collection, gorgeously made tailored suits in a mottelled green print, the girly short skirted, a line dresses scattered in crystals and a faded black flower print and finally stunning Grecian maxi dresses, strapless, gathered beautifully at the top and billowing out behind.
The collection was accessorised with oversized leather bags, beautiful matching shoes with tassels and sparkles and the hair was worn in a messy plait wrapped around the head Heidi style.
Such a gorgeous collection!!
Miguel Vieira
This collection oozed wealth; it began in all white and gold with twisted roses of white net all over a skirt and jacket. The menswear was yacht fashion – think European sleaze on the Riviera. Cropped chinos worn with open patterned shirts, polo shirts with gold branding and gorgeous tailored jackets in purple, pink, green and white. Accessorised with shiny gold shoes, men’s gold belt charms and gorgeous leopard fur bags the collection was perfectly executed for the market that it was aimed at – the rich and famous.
Women’s dresses and skirts generally reached the knee; gold studded belt details crossed the waists and backs as well as printed gold foil spots that reached down the dresses. Many sheer details were sexy without revealing too much, overlaid with white lace, pleated and sequinned. Sequinned all gold skirts were paired with white skirted tops and the rose appliqué featured strongly. The evening pieces became incredibly glamorous, the fabric a sparkling mix of zebra and leopard in maxis split to the thigh and billowing behind the models.
The collection was not to my taste, it was well executed and perfectly made and styled but it was not something I’d ever consider wearing…. unless I had a yacht and a mansion.
Nuno Goma
This show is renowned for its insanely attractive models and divine tailoring and it did not disappoint.
Starting with very traditional, dapper tailoring with wide full cravat style neckties, fastened with sparkling pins, worn with shirts, waistcoats and full suits. The first suit grey with black details and lapels and then red moving through to a grey and purple plaid. The collection turns more casual with geometric black and white print suits and then shorts, sleeveless shirts and cropped suit jackets. The colours swing between pastels and brighter, yet washed out shades and t-shirts featuring damask style vintage prints featuring the brands cross logo. Knitted polo shirts with low slung necks also feature in a variety of vibrant colours, two tone shirts and all accessorised with two tone gorgeous shoes, plaid trainers, and long, tied leather belts. Lilac was a shade used often as well as an off white-green shade.
After all this beautiful tailoring the show took a turn… for swimwear. The shorts were tiny briefs in a variety of the colours featured throughout the show and geometric patterns, mainly triangle shapes, running short side details as well as contrasted waistbands.
But in all honesty? No one was looking at the swimwear…
Enjoy!
I’m pretty sure these men aren’t real.
Luis Buchino
This collection was perfectly summery, starting with all white flowing tops that sat on the waist and then exotic looking palm tree printed, dip dye trousers.
The trousers were gathered at the ankle and featured drawstring gathering all through the front and were worn with relaxed tailored jackets, also skirted at the waist, thin knitted dip dye tops in pink, yellow and white as well as chunky metallic knitted crop tops. The metallic thread knitted was sheer and chunky with an air of the sea – the entire collection reminding me a little of mermaids, coral shapes and ship wrecks. Sale like, sheer, worn fabrics featured curling hems and they floated angel like down the catwalk.
On trend, the collection featured paper bag style waistlines, mixed length maxis and cheeky almond shaped cut outs as well as cut away backs. The final pieces in dusky pink metallic sheer knit featured rope details and finished the collection beautifully.
Jemima Daisy







