The Best of Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland

 

Poland probably isn’t the first place you’d think of as a centre of fashion; it probably isn’t even the second or third place! But, deep in Eastern Europe a new breed of fashion designer is emerging. Functional daywear and sports inspired, grunge chic takes to the catwalks for the Polish and international press to see.

My trip this season was slightly shorter than usual but in that time I saw a range of wonderful designers showing classy separates, sport themes and understated chic working in line with trends from around the globe.

MICHAŁ SZULC

Clearly inspired by American retro high school the collection opened with a navy varsity jacket emblazoned large “C”, worn with an a-line grey skirt.

Utility style fabrics contrasted with cable knit and corduroy while panels of dog tooth print gave the collection a retro edge.

Wide shorts were worn over skin tight trousers widening the silhouette dramatically. Waist lines varied between cinched tight waist lines and low slung hipsters with elasticated gathers and draw strings.

The entire collection worn with converse trainers used the school theme effectively accessorising with thick knitted tights, flashes of neon orange and hair worn in a messy bun. Clearly inspired by American retro high school the collection opened with a navy varsity jacket emblazoned large “C”, worn with an a-line grey skirt.

Utility style fabrics contrasted with cable knit and corduroy while panels of dog tooth print gave the collection a retro edge.

Wide shorts were worn over skin tight trousers widening the silhouette dramatically. Waist lines varied between cinched tight waist lines and low slung hipsters with elasticated gathers and draw strings.

The entire collection worn with converse trainers used the school theme effectively accessorising with thick knitted tights, flashes of neon orange and hair worn in a messy bun.

AGATA WOJTKIEWICZ

Fingers dipped in liquid latex this collection showed promise from the start using urban looking graffiti style prints.

As has proved popular this season, quilted jackets hanging away from the body were worn with form fitting pencil skirts. Loose T-shirt dresses with oversized pockets were shown in a range of styles – some featuring metallic foil, others looking more functional in a utility style. The severe black looks were offset by pieces in pastel blue and pink creating a more feminine look.

Knit wear featured towards the end of the collection – Grey jumpers slashed at the shoulders continued the edgy vibe. Final pieces feature silver metallic foil on quilted pencil skirts with flashes of neon pink also making an appearance.

KAMILA GAWROŃSKA – KASPERSKA

This collection was accompanied by dramatic choral music. The first outfits with an air of the orient. Waterfall jackets in silk with printed cross motif in scarlet and white. The cinched waists led to wide, a-line skirts – the pieces also showing interesting structural elements with high severe neck lines and large stiff hoods contrasting strongly with smooth shaped lapels and jacket tails also cut into similarly smooth, curved shapes.

Sheer panels were cut into fabric creating delicate windows to flesh whilst remaining true to strong religious themes which were epitomised in an outfit featuring a skin tight skull cap.

The collection was stark, clean and beautiful. The more wearable items included caped jackets with femininely rounded shoulders, low rise cigarette pants and drop crotch trousers. This collection was accompanied by dramatic church music. The first outfits with an air of the orient. Waterfall jackets in silk with printed cross motif in scarlet and white. The cinched waists led to wide, a-line skirts – the pieces also showing interesting structural elements with high severe neck lines and large stiff hoods contrasting strongly with smooth shaped lapels and jacket tails also cut into similarly smooth, curved shapes.

WIOLA WOŁCZYŃSKA

The styling in this collection seemed very European and followed many trends this season. The hair was wild and tamed only by wide brimmed hats. Severe two piece suits in linear grey opened the collection, the wide tailored lapels looking every part the school teacher, skirts split at the front and collars rising up the throat. A jacket featured a bubble skirt over the top with an elasticated waist. Padded jackets were worn with tailored trousers that were pleated at the hip in a very masculine style.

Gun metal sequins added a touch of feminine glamour to the collection while wide legged trousers were added to with panels of black to break up the grey. Cuffs, collars and peplums were cut into with a square design creating and interesting shape and modernising the collection further. The utility themes were clear throughout this collection. Understated flashes of orange and salmon with navy and grey tweed were worked through garments as a welcome relief from grey. Peplum tops were worn with the androgynous trousers that featured throughout while fur adorned shoulders and panels of jackets. Final pieces of this collection were beautiful maroon jackets with patent black outer pockets and a maroon pinafore dress.

ROKSOLANA BOGUTSKA – SPECIAL GUEST – CLOSING SHOW

This final show was much anticipated. The Ukrainian designer’s heritage could be seen on the opulent catwalk collection. Sheer, chiffon dresses in navy with intricate rust bohemian prints were styled with patent leather jackets and belts. Pussy bow blouses peeped from below pinafore style dresses that fell to below the knee. Patent leather with plaited piping gave way to opulent gold embellishment, bling-tastic appliqué and almost military inspired severe high collars, reminiscent of the Russian upper classes. Black velvet was used throughout this collection with other heavier fabrics that held the bold, gold embellishments. Detailed belts cinched waists of gold foil, printed dresses oozing femininity.

Outerwear was similarly luxurious, textured black fur with sandy gold fur collars were also belted at the waist contrasting with the wide shoulders. Silver-blue fur and maroon were shown in this section of the collection, interrupted but more casual dresses in similar tones, still featuring overly sparkling jewellery and detailed belts.  Satin blouses and skirts began to interrupt the fur outerwear before the jackets and coats were discarded entirely and in its place we saw beautifully printed blouses, neck scarves and more androgynous tunic shirts with flared trousers. Finally light, satin dresses featuring traditional cross stitched belts and shoulder pieces as well as the traditional bohemian prints.

The collection closed with a stunning white maxi dress adorned with tiny details.  The collection clearly took a lot of influence from the traditional Ukrainian costume and this was seen through prints, colours and mainly through the cross stitch like detailing in belts and accessories.

Find out more about Poland Fashion Week:  http://fashionweek.pl

By Jemima Daisy