Bora Aksu – LFW Day 1
Inspired by the dolly sister of the 1920s this collection was a mix of masculinity and feminine silhouettes from the era. Battling between the glamour and opulence of the jazz era, the pencil tight shift dresses layered with a line cut sheer chiffon reflected women’s restriction and the need to be free.
Corsets still played a part in the collections and the leathers were made up of faded algae and grey. The colour palette was muted, ivories, melange and moss started the collection well, slowly transitioning into pops of jewel purple and fuchsia which oozed the opulence of the 1920s. Key silhouettes were snug pencil skirts opposed to boxy cropped jackets, shoulders were prominent in the fact they were ruched, really making a statement. Art Deco headwear were seen on all models, the intricate headpieces caged round the forehead and down to the cheekbones, representing the forever stylish era well but also the concept of women being repressed at the time.
Scalloped webbed dresses created beautiful texture to the simple silhouettes, creating elegant sophisticated women. Fur was prominent in stunning fitted jackets. Aksu played with panelling, opposing fur and leather in strips for the corset a must have from his collection. Caped shoulders were in keeping of the romantic feel represented through the dolly sisters, often their hearts were hurt and the subtle injections of blue and pink represented that.
The collection was cohesive and the story told was beautiful, Aksu managed to capture the decade of the roaring twenties in a modern way, bringing it up to date with a variety of textures and fabrics.