The Sealing Procedure

Sealing is, as the name suggests, a stamp of approval.

Pre Production Sealing

Sealing is, as the name suggests, a stamp of approval. Every retail organisation I have worked for; Littlewoods, Marks & Spencer and the Arcadia Group undertakes a similar sealing procedure to ensure that there is a standardisation of product and everyone understands the quality levels expected. There are two seals:

1) Before production commences – sometimes called a green seal.

This green seal approves the fit and quality standard for manufacturing before the order is made. It is the green light for production.

The “bought” item or first fit sample is “fitted” on a live model or mannequin and then the buyer and seller (designer or supplier) attends the fitting and they both agree the standards for manufacturing such as; are hems to be double turned, pin hemmed or just overlocked? Are there shoulder pads in the item? if yes, are they mesh lined or self fabric covered.

The fit is discussed. Is the bust correct? Does the CBL (Centre Back Length) need to be increased? Once the fit has taken place then the sample is sealed and ready for production.

2) Black or Gold Seal

Once the pre production sample is approved the garment can be graded (i.e. order may be size 10 – 18 each size is a grade). The bulk fabric ordered, trims ordered and production space at the factory booked.

Production can now commence. After an in-work-check i.e. an inspection and review of garments going down the production line at the factory, a production seal, sometimes called black or gold seal is then taken to ensure that the production corresponds to the agreed green seal – the preproduction seal.

In an ideal world (!) both seals correspond to get the bulk production is approved, it’s delivered and the designer and supplier then get paid.

However if the production is NOT approved its then time for renegotiation. The last thing a designer or supplier wants is a cancelled order, so depending on whether there is a critical or not critical fault/issue the production has to be reviewed.

If it’s a non critical fault e.g. the hem circumference on a full riding skirt is -2cm this would not stop the sale of the skirt. In such circumstances it’s normal that the buyer will be commercially lenient and approved by the black/gold seal with a cost price reduction. However if it’s a critical fault such as a shading in the garment in a print or -2cm on the bust measurement of a fitted blouse then there will be “trouble at mill!” This could cause the entire order to be cancelled or down sized i.e. if it’s too small for a size 12 then change the labels to a size 10 and reduce side seams to improve fit. This creates more work, less margin and may still carry a 10% cost price reduction.

Always try and be proactive not reactive. You don’t want problems to occur and then lose orders. Don’t leave important amends to an order to telephone conversations or emails to your supplier – if you have to visit them do make sure it’s face to face!

Once the fabric is out it’s normally too late! Get organised and plan around. if you want to know more about this important production process then you should attend one of our seminars or mentoring sessions.