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Stitching by Hand and Free Machine Embroidery

February 11, 2025 - February 11, 2025   


Stitching types and their purpose…

TEMPORARY STITCHES

These are needed for marking your fabric pieces with your pattern marks therefore tacking two layers of fabric together before they are being permanently stitched. All the tack stitches are removed after being permanently stitches. These stitches are used to show you the position of the darts, buttonholes and other parts of the construction.

Using double thread, sew a double stitch leaving long threads at the end of each stitch.

When sewing a double layer, lace two layers together and sew the tack stitch using double thread and gently pull the two layers apart and cut through the stitches.

UPRIGHT TACKING

Upright tacking is used for holding pleats in place. It is also used for reveres and interfacing. This is a stronger tack to secure a wider area of fabric.

The technique is used for a double layer of fabric.

Tacking is used for marking fitting lines and alterations on single fabric and for holding layers of fabric into position ready for the final stitch process.

To use long and short stitches holds the fabric in place better.

A know it used to fasten on a tack stitch and a double stitch to fasten off.

RIGHT TO LEFT

Hand sewing is a lost art and it is an important skill to have.

All stitches should be neat and firm with even stitches.

The size of the stitch should be adapted for the thickness of the fabric.

Test the stitches on the fabric before you stitch the final garment.

Fasten on thread with 2 or 3 small black stitches at the beginning of the sewing line.

Fasten off with 2 or 3 small back stitches working into the back of the completed stitching.

The stitches and spaces should be of equal length. This is the same as running a stitch. Stitches should be equal length with no space between.

There are three main stitch types that work with smocking these are:

Stem Stitch

Work from left to right stitching through each pleat holding the thread above the needle. The chain stitch is achieved by turning round at the end and working back with the stitches close together.

Cable Stitch

Similar to the stem stitch working from left to right. Alternate the thread above and below the needle. The cable is worked by stitching another row under the first.

Wave Stitch

Make sure there is the same number of stitches on each side of the wave.

Embroidery is a type of fabric manipulation. There are many different techniques used for embroidery; hand embroidery and machine embroidery.

Embroidery is technique that can alter the design of a garment without the use of the pattern cutting. You can buy pre embroidered fabric as well as embroidering the fabric yourself. There are different types of embroidery threads that can be used and a spectrum amount of colours to incorporate.

Chain stitch

chain_stitch

Chain stitch is a technique used generally in a line or a circle.

This hand sewn technique is created by :

  • Bringing the thread through from the back to the front
  • Make a loop with the thread and hold it down with your thumb
  • Insert the needle close the where it came out
  • Come out of the fabric again a small distance away from the original hole
  • Make sure the looped thread is under the tip of the needle
  • Pull the thread up gently
  • Repeat this technique putting the needle into the edge of the loop to stretch the leg
  • To finish, stitch over the top of the last loop of the chain stitch

Ladder stitch

ladder_stitch

The ladder stitch is made in the same way as the chain stitch however is just wider:

  • Bring the thread through to the front as before
  • Make a loop and hold it with your thumb
  • Insert the needle a small distance to right of where it came in; a larger distance than you would for the chain stitch
  • Come out again a small distance up diagonally to the left
  • Pull the thread through
  • Repeat putting the needle into the edge of the loop to stretch the leg
  • To finish the line of the stitch over both corners of the top of the last loop

Couching

couching

Couching can be done using just thread as well as over another material such as wire of wool. It is a decorative technique that can be done by hand or using a machine. The technique has a thread of material lying on the material flat in a straight line or in the form of a pattern. You can couch a single thread or a double thread. There is no limit with thickness.

  • To couch using solely thread by hand, bring the thread to be couched up on the right side of the fabric
  • Stitch a line in the shape of the pattern you want the couching to go
  • Take your separate couching thread – this can be a different colour or type of thread and bring it up at one side
  • Stitch straight over the top of the under thread
  • Bring the needle out diagonally under flat threads ready to make another stitch
  • Repeat this along the couch thread
  • To couch using a machine and another material other than a thread, place the material to be couched in the shape and pattern you wish to have it in
  • Set the sewing machine to zigzag stitch
  • Make the stitch size the right length to cover your chosen material
  • Couch along the line of the chosen material and pattern
  • Double stitch at the end to secure the couching

Cross stitch

cross1
cross2

This stitch is very easy; you need to choose a thread that stands out from the fabric to make it noticeable. Make sure they are sewn evenly and neatly, it is advised that you mark the fabric where you will be sewing it:

  • Bring the needle out at top left
  • Stitch to the bottom right
  • Bring the needle out at the bottom left
  • Finally stitch to the top right corner

French knot

french_knot

French knots also known as seed stitch can be worked randomly or in lines. They can be quite fiddly and take practice. They are quite delicate so do not use them in an area which will take a lot of wear. 

  • Hold the thread taught and twist it around the needle three times
  • Keeping the thread taught, pull the needle back so the wrapped stitches slide down the needle.
  • Insert the needle back into the fabric right next to where it came out
  • Pull the needle through so that the wrapped threads are held on the surface

Blanket stitch

blanket_stitch

Blanket stitch is worked in a circle or at different lengths. It is generally used as an edging or a decorative detail.

  • Bring the needle out of the fabric and make the loop and hold it
  • Put the needle in diagonally below where the thread came out
  • Sew back out again in line with where it came out
  • Pull up the stitch and repeat in this way in the desired pattern

Free Machine Embroidery

Free machine embroidery is a chance to create your own design onto a fabric. The design is created free hand and can be a very artistic technique.

You can draw guidelines onto the fabric first if you wish; it is totally dependant on the style you are gong for. To support the fabric it is advised you use a stabiliser that can be stitched on and then torn off after stitching. You can also use a wooden disk called an embroidery ring, this makes the fabric taught and can be used as a guide. Without the hoop it can be hard to move the fabric.

machine

To machine stitch you will need to drop the feed teeth on the machine. Use an embroidery darning foot and machine embroidery thread.

  • Place the stabiliser underneath the fabric and put it into the embroidery hoop
  • Set the stitch length and free hand embroider

You can use multiple types of threads and colours and the embroidery can be worked on as much as desired

 




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