Stitching by Hand and Free Machine Embroidery

February 11, 2025 - February 11, 2025
Stitching types and their purpose…
TEMPORARY STITCHES
These are needed for marking your fabric pieces with your pattern marks therefore tacking two layers of fabric together before they are being permanently stitched. All the tack stitches are removed after being permanently stitches. These stitches are used to show you the position of the darts, buttonholes and other parts of the construction.
Using double thread, sew a double stitch leaving long threads at the end of each stitch.
When sewing a double layer, lace two layers together and sew the tack stitch using double thread and gently pull the two layers apart and cut through the stitches.
UPRIGHT TACKING
Upright tacking is used for holding pleats in place. It is also used for reveres and interfacing. This is a stronger tack to secure a wider area of fabric.
The technique is used for a double layer of fabric.
Tacking is used for marking fitting lines and alterations on single fabric and for holding layers of fabric into position ready for the final stitch process.
To use long and short stitches holds the fabric in place better.
A know it used to fasten on a tack stitch and a double stitch to fasten off.
RIGHT TO LEFT
Hand sewing is a lost art and it is an important skill to have.
All stitches should be neat and firm with even stitches.
The size of the stitch should be adapted for the thickness of the fabric.
Test the stitches on the fabric before you stitch the final garment.
Fasten on thread with 2 or 3 small black stitches at the beginning of the sewing line.
Fasten off with 2 or 3 small back stitches working into the back of the completed stitching.
The stitches and spaces should be of equal length. This is the same as running a stitch. Stitches should be equal length with no space between.
- This stitch is used for neatening the raw edge of a single fabric.
- This is used to hold folded edges firmly in place. The slope and space of the stitch is equally spaced and appear the same on both sides.
- This is used for holding skirts, dresses and other folded edges in place. This is invisible on the right side. Do not pull the thread tightly.
- Used to hold single layers such as interfacing, this is invisible of the right side.
- This is the hand version used for button holes; sew so that the knots rest on the top of the raw edges. Stitches should be one thread apart.
- This is used for neatening the raw edges of a piece of fabric for strengthening weak points and decoration.
- This is used for holding the hem of a thick fabric.
There are three main stitch types that work with smocking these are:
Stem Stitch
Work from left to right stitching through each pleat holding the thread above the needle. The chain stitch is achieved by turning round at the end and working back with the stitches close together.
Cable Stitch
Similar to the stem stitch working from left to right. Alternate the thread above and below the needle. The cable is worked by stitching another row under the first.
Wave Stitch
Make sure there is the same number of stitches on each side of the wave.
Embroidery is a type of fabric manipulation. There are many different techniques used for embroidery; hand embroidery and machine embroidery.
Embroidery is technique that can alter the design of a garment without the use of the pattern cutting. You can buy pre embroidered fabric as well as embroidering the fabric yourself. There are different types of embroidery threads that can be used and a spectrum amount of colours to incorporate.
Chain stitch
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Chain stitch is a technique used generally in a line or a circle.
This hand sewn technique is created by :
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Ladder stitch
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The ladder stitch is made in the same way as the chain stitch however is just wider:
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Couching
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Couching can be done using just thread as well as over another material such as wire of wool. It is a decorative technique that can be done by hand or using a machine. The technique has a thread of material lying on the material flat in a straight line or in the form of a pattern. You can couch a single thread or a double thread. There is no limit with thickness.
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Cross stitch
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This stitch is very easy; you need to choose a thread that stands out from the fabric to make it noticeable. Make sure they are sewn evenly and neatly, it is advised that you mark the fabric where you will be sewing it:
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French knot
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French knots also known as seed stitch can be worked randomly or in lines. They can be quite fiddly and take practice. They are quite delicate so do not use them in an area which will take a lot of wear.
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Blanket stitch
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Blanket stitch is worked in a circle or at different lengths. It is generally used as an edging or a decorative detail.
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Free Machine Embroidery
Free machine embroidery is a chance to create your own design onto a fabric. The design is created free hand and can be a very artistic technique.
You can draw guidelines onto the fabric first if you wish; it is totally dependant on the style you are gong for. To support the fabric it is advised you use a stabiliser that can be stitched on and then torn off after stitching. You can also use a wooden disk called an embroidery ring, this makes the fabric taught and can be used as a guide. Without the hoop it can be hard to move the fabric.
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To machine stitch you will need to drop the feed teeth on the machine. Use an embroidery darning foot and machine embroidery thread.
You can use multiple types of threads and colours and the embroidery can be worked on as much as desired |