Smocking

This is a decorative technique controlling the area of fullness.

It also provides elasticity for ease of movement. The allowance of fabric needed is normally four times the amount of the finished smocking. Although this may change depending on the fabric it is advisable that you test a piece of smocking on the chosen fabric before you smock your final garment.

When sewing a checked , stripped or patterned fabric the pattern should be used as a guide for sewing the gathering thread. On plain fabrics or freely patterned fabric a transfer of smocking dots can be used but it is not essential. Place the transfer on the wrong side , with a moderate heat press and iron onto this to mark the fabric. On sheer fabric the transfer must be pinned on and the gather stitch sewn through the paper which is torn off when completed.

The top line of gathering is place 0.3cm above the fitting line. Gathering lines should be ideally 0.6cm apart to hold the gathering in place.

Leave enough length of thread at the end of the stitch  line in order to pull the gathers.

When all rows have been gathered up, starting from the top, tie all the loose ends. These gathering threads must not be removed until the smocking has been completed.

Use a smooth cotton when smocking. Fasten on all stitches on the wrong side by working two stitches over the second pleat, then push the needle through to the right side between the first and second pleat.

There are three main stitch types that work with smocking these are:

Stem Stitch

Working left to right stitching through each pleat holding the thread above the needle. He chain stitch is achieved by turning round at the end and working back with the stitches close together.

Cable stitch

Working the same as the stem stitch from left to right. Alternate the thread above and below the needle. The cable is worked by stitching another row under the first.

Wave stitch

Working as in the diagram make sure there is the same number of stitches on each side of the wave.