Fabric Faults

Monitoring fabric faults is an essential part of quality control and garment production.

It is important to recognize, detect and evaluate fabric faults in flat and moving fabrics. It is important that the quality of the fabric is fit for purpose as well as being value for money. It is important that there is a company wide understanding of the quality needed for the garment and the customer.

Detecting a fabric fault

There are many different ways of detecting a fabric fault.

Inspection is used to describe the visual examination of a fabric or garment. This is a review of raw materials such as fabric, buttons, zippers, sewing threads, trims etc. the principle behind this inspection is the early detection of the defects, resulting in correction of the problem.

After the fabric is received it should be inspected to review acceptability from a quality point of view. A cutter and spreaders will be able to do their job quicker if this is done at the correct stage.

Fabric inspection is usually done using fabric inspection machine such as below. The defects are located, marked and then recorded on an inspection form.

Machine such as these are usual machine powered and can also measure the width of the fabric which is important for costing.  In countries such as India fabric inspection is generally carried out by hand but is done on a number of occasions and at different stages.

The 4 point system is a grading system where a fabric flaw is given a length or width point.

For example:

Up to 2 In – 1 point

Over 3 In. Up to 6 In. – 2 points

Over 6 In. Up to 9 In. – 3 points

Over 9 In. – 4 points

Holes up to 1 In- 2 points

Holes over 1 In- 4 points

Total fault points are calculated every 100 square yards and any fabrics with more than 40 points per 100 square yards are classed as seconds.

As well as obvious fabric defects the inspector should look out for obvious defects in the hand, no, or surface finish of the fabric. Also noticeable variations of the shade of the fabric should also be looked for.

Another area that needs to be considered is the quality of the sewing thread. During sewing the thread is subject to main stresses and strains which will also be evident in the wear of the garment the thread needs to be strong enough to withhold this.

During sewing the average thread looses 2-20% of its strength. Threads need to be tested for construction- through yarn counts, twist balance, and number of twists. Sewabilty- at least 3 reels should be used for 100 yards of sewing. Imperfections- sewing thread should be free of slub and knots. Finish- a lubricant applied to sewing threads to make it easier to use. Colour- is the colour consistent, it should match the original. Winding- the winding of the sewing thread should be taught. Yardage- the sewing thread length should be that specified.

Examples of fabric faults