LFW September 2017 – Highlights Day 2
From bees to beading, volume to vision – the influences and applications are in abundant supply on Day 2 at LFW…
Getting in on the Fashion Week action Amazon Fashion presented an exclusive with Nicopanda at the brand’s first ever London Fashion Week catwalk show held at the Amazon Fashion European Photography Studio. Nicopanda embraces the See Now Buy Now movement and is the personal brand developed by uber stylist Nicola Formichetti. Six pieces from the unisex collection are exclusive to Amazon Fashion Europe, which includes a hoodie, oversized bomber jacket, long sleeved tee, scarf, clutch bag and leggings.
Nicopanda images by David M. Benett
Camouflage, checker-board, PVC and mesh were the order of the day at Dans La Vie Rira Sugawara. Bold patterns in primary green, red, tan and black & white were combined with texture and transparency resulting in gender fluid garments in sportswear shapes.
Dans La Vie Rira Sugawara images by Chris Daw
Inspired by the humble honeybee, Jiri Kalfar combined his love of nature with his sustainable and eco-friendly brand ethos. The SS18 collection is an eclectic mix of semi-couture handmade pieces along with commercial items, using one-off materials to reflect the magic and colour of the bee. Also inspired by Vivienne Westwood’s ”˜intellectuals unite’ speech and climate revolution movement – the collection embodies these beliefs and presents a glamorous take on fundamental environmental issues. Sequins, velvet, lace and silk have been used to create elegant yet fierce pieces of clothing, with a mixture of day and eveningwear.
Markus Lupfer was set against a striking cascade of giant white plastic bubbles, providing an ideal backdrop to the very floral collection. Intricate floral beading, flower-shaped glasses and giant beaded earrings (in the shape of various flowers, of course) made for a brilliantly cohesive collection. Vivid pinks, blues and greens really brought life to the collection, with models lounging on complimentary Markus Lupfer printed furniture. The much loved peter-pan collar and shirt-under-a-vest combo were both out and about too, but the lack of frills or ruffles ensured everything looked clean and modern. A favourite overheard comment of the presentation: “I want everything on her body,” summarises my feelings perfectly.
Katie Ann McGuigan was all about graphic print – this season in predominantly hues of orange, yellow and blue. Printed silk shorts billowed under knitted vests and over wool culottes; skirts and dresses fell in voluminous triangles; blazers hung off bodies – the entire collection was an exercise in ’controlled volume’. Shoes were too in acidic oranges and covered in thick frills, giving a wonderful cohesivity to the collection.
Katie Ann McGuigan
Fashion Scout SS18 Merit Award winner EDDA, named by the New York Times as one of ten “Fresh out of Fashion School designers to watch,” wowed the fashion pack with her bold illustrative prints combined with voluminous 50’s silhouettes and a real sense of playful drama. Bright lemons, pale pink and faded blue made up the EDDA colour palette and far from being a nostalgic look back the collection felt very fashion forward with her illustrations continuing onto wide-brimmed hats, accessories, headbands and even a pair of thigh-high boots.
Images courtesy of EDDA and Nicholas Kristians
John Herrera on the other hand was full of heightened drama and ever-higher hair – with models donning voluminous beehives cloaked in tulle accompanied by theatrical Black Swan-esque makeup. Beaded corsets and huge, encompassing skirts made for an incredibly striking silhouette. Clear inspirations included both the Elizabethan era and the allure of corrupted fairytales, as many looks were exaggerated by intricate ruffs and crimson cloaks.
Omar Mansoor, showing as part of the Fashion International Showcase, too had beading in abundance, used to enhance his many fluid and lace dresses in a range of flattering nude shades.
If there is anything to take away from Saturday’s shows, it’s that a complete vision from a designer is always the most memorable.
Word by India Hunnikin and JoJo Iles