LFW Men’s June 2017 – Christopher Raeburn SS18
Christopher Raeburn’s ‘desert-wear’ collection was not only reconstructed in its design, but in its ethos of the 4 R’s (Remade, Reduced, Recycled, Raeburn) offering the fashion world a much-needed sustainable approach to menswear in a world where some (cough cough) still fail to see the imposing danger of climate change.
Taking inspiration from ‘The Long Walk’ by Slavomir Rawicz (a story of intrepid adventure spanning from Siberia to India to the Himalayas), Raeburn deconstructed pre-flown kites which were reconstructed into macs, flowing anoraks and jersey – adding a dimension of fluidity to the offering, whilst promoting his ethos of sustainability.
Yet the desert theme did not end here. The season’s mascot was the jerboa ”a hopping desert rodent” which was placed across jersey and knitwear a plenty, and even was the shape of the invite. Orange, grey, white, and khaki were the core colours of the collection – ideal for desert conditions of wind and sun. Neon-orange tulle was reworked into t-shirts, jackets, hats and trousers (and on occasion bucket hats) and layered over solid pieces of splattered camo, adding a unique aspect to the inherently streetwear aesthetic. Strokes of neon paint were swept across the models brow bone, and logoed banding was in abandonment throughout – further emphasising the 4 R’s of Raeburn.
The collection was peppered with womenswear of the same aesthetic, with constructed panelling of gradient tones making up dresses, bomber jackets and tabards. If Raeburn is the (desert) king of anything, he is the king of the collaboration. 3-way footwear was created with Palladium, using recycled PET coated leather and organic cotton; minimalist watches designed with Instrmnt – with a reduced footprint; 3-D printed patches and Agility Heat Transfers with Avery Dennison RBIS; organic denim with Blackhorse Lane Ateliers – all complicit with his Remade, Reduced, Recycled ideology.
Raeburn managed to create a unique collection meshing desert-wear practicality with athleisure toxicity, whilst going to enormous lengths to ensure sustainability, and for that, I cannot do anything but applaud him for it.