Spring/Summer 2019 Menswear Shows – Key Trends
A menswear season exploding with fashion happenings, industry firsts and exciting trends; the Spring/Summer 2019 shows captured the attention of the fashion world more than any other.
High-profile debuts came courtesy of Virgil Abloh and Kim Jones at Louis Vuitton and Dior Men, Maison Margiela presented their first menswear couture show, David Beckham honoured his first season as ambassadorial president of the British Fashion Council, as well as Raf Simons, creative director at Calvin Klein, returning to show his eponymous label in Paris.
Key trends ranged from neon’s, tailoring, bucket hats and handbags to trench coats, short shorts, utility pockets and a key emphasis on sustainability.
The importance of addressing sustainability within the collections reflected as a key element throughout.
Synonymous with pioneering ethical style, Stella McCartney showcased wearable British tailoring with a twist, featuring organic cotton shirting, a fun ‘Suitable for Vegetarians’ logo on embroidered graphic tees and cruelty-free classic loafers. Oliver Spencer illustrated the environmental advantages of linen that were seen on loosely tailored checked suits and pyjama-esque trousers. Etro bombarded their collection with bamboo that channelled a conscious clothing choice; Christopher Raeburn championed sustainability via recycled fabrics; whilst CMMN SWDN revealed an entirely upcycled collection that was dominated by diaphanous styles.
The Spring/Summer 2019 suit has experienced a new look for the season, being elevated to innovative heights and drawing inspiration from the 80s, as well as imbuing couture craftsmanship.
Couture master extraordinaire John Galliano presented a tantalising array of tailored pieces in Paris at Maison Margiela for the first time that reflected bias cut suiting – much like his womenswear lines. 3D illusions were witnessed at Dior, where Kim Jones layered organza over embroidered wools. An assortment of double-breasted suits arrived somewhat nonchalant and oversized, fashioned with a streetwear edge at Dries van Noten, Paul Smith displayed wide-legged trousers and trainers, whilst revealing torsos were on display under sharp suiting at Ermenegildo Zegna and Giorgio Armani.
Elsewhere, an amalgamation of shades differed from sky blue, violet and rose-petal pink to industrial grey and shades of sherbet.
Law enforcers, fishermen and boy scouts spring to mind when you think of utility pockets and going by the number of pocket gillets, jackets and harnesses that were adorned over on the catwalks for Spring/Summer 2019, it seems as though a safe-keeping policy will be tightly in place for next season.
Louis Vuitton’s creative director Virgil Abloh championed the trend showcasing a multi-compartmentalised body warmer; seatbelt-esque styles with a functional element prevailed at Junya Watanabe and Samuel Ross; while zipped compartments were dotted on jumpers at Acne. All you’ve got to remember is what you’ve put where!
Words by Kate Farley
Images from top to bottom: Stella McCartney, Paul Smith and Junya Watanabe, intro image Louis Vuitton