Jacket Required – Peter Werth
“Strong domestic turnout however the focus on more established brands, better layout and fixtures is laying the template for an internationally recognised event.”
A true London brand, founded in Islington by Peter Werth in 1975 and part of the ‘seasoned’ landscape for menswear in the UK, with its outerwear still made in East London. You don’t stay in this competitive industry for 40 years if you do not have a good eye for design and business know-how – their longevity a testament to the enduring appeal of the brand by combining both.
“We are at the smarter end of the spectrum, targeting the 25-45 year old male, covering two demographics, one age group that may shop in Top Man / Oxford Circus and one that shops in House of Fraser,” reflecting the concessions they currently operate. The older buyer says Paul, feels more assured when shopping for known brands, governed by style. A curious lifestyle behaviorism born from maturity – knowing and sticking to what you like.
Paul had a few succinct remarks about the damage Black Friday is doing to brands. “It’s not sustainable. Throw aggressive discounting into an already highly competitive market, with volatile weather. It’s not healthy for the industry.” With a very slow, tough winter retail period, a number of brands I spoke to echoed this sentiment.
Another brand they showed on their stand was the Yogi shoe brand launched by Duffer St George in the late 90s, which has sold very well – a collaboration for them in a number of indie’s including Number Six London, Phillip Brown and Aspecto.
I particularly liked their Crombie style brushed wool coat as a garment of choice and came away thinking this is a solid brand going about its business, quietly confident in its own area of specialization. Apparently a good Jacket Required from a buyer’s interest point of view Paul tells me just as the Truman Brewery shut up shop for another menswear season.
By Paul Markevicius