#LFW40: 7 Trends Straight From London Fashion Week AW24

Now at 40-years-old, London Fashion Week, has established itself as the capital of creative, a melting pot of new ideas, inclusivity and cultures. In these environmentally conscious times the idea of a trend can seem rather flippant, however, there is no ignoring the reinforcement of parallel thinking when it comes to the latest collections and their influences.

In terms of designers on show you could say that Burberry is the grand parent, joined this season by Dunhill, followed by the likes of Paul Costelloe and subsequent parents with the likes of Erdem, Bora Asku, Simone Rocha, Roksanda and JW Anderson. The vast remainder of the schedule showcases new, or relatively new names, including those the FEL team have been personally involved with. Such as Derrick, and his tailored menswear produced at our Fashion Studio and Dreaming Eli, based at the FC Designer Workspace.

The UK’s fashion universities and colleges are often regarded as top tier for creativity globally and this season both London College of Fashion and Central Saint Martins MA students got their first taste of presenting their work on a LFW platform. Supporting new talent is something that LFW seems to do very well, with the likes of On|Off, Fashion East, NEWGEN and Fashion Scout providing opportunities for emerging talents, both in the UK and globally.

Inclusivity was also all over the catwalks and presentation spaces this season, in particular the use of older models was up, which makes sense when statistically 35 to 44 year-olds and Baby Boomers have more disposable income than their younger counterparts. While the need for sustainability and healthy profit margins can often conflict, there is no ignoring that sales are required for a brand to thrive.

So, what was on show for Autumn/Winter 24/25? Here are seven key trends that emerged from the London Fashion Week collections…

Forest of Green

Green, in every shade appeared in many collections, reinforced by Burberry, from checked trenches and duffle coats to pleated skirts and knitwear. Moss, khaki, emerald and more from the green colour palette worked the catwalk on models of yesteryear. Other designers going green this season included Derrick, Labrum and Chet Lo. Coming a close second were shades of deep red, oxblood and burgundy as seen at Jasive and Molly Goddard.

A Fine Romance

Flouncy frills, ruffles and bows combined with voluminous sleeves and maxi lengths made for a romantic, whimsical feel at Richard Quinn, Jasive, Bora Aksu and Alex S Yu. 

Breast in Show

Breast is best for designers this season as the obligatory erogenous zone on show turned to the chest area. Look no further than Helen Anthony for bare breasts under sheer fabrics, or Simone Rocha and her bejewelled under-breast cups, as well as Dreaming Eli and her underwear as outerwear offering full frontal sex appeal.

A Sheer Layer Over

Best exemplified by Simone Rocha and Alex S Yu, layering a sheer dress or skirt over an outfit, or for the more daring, bare skin, was seen on and off the catwalk. Delicate tulles and chiffons were toughened up when combined with tailoring or second skin club wear. This trend also incorporates sheer corsets and bralets cinching in shirts and fine knits.

Minimal Lines

In contrast to the romantic trend, tailoring and outwear took a 90’s minimal turn at many of the collections. Paring back on trims, lapels and the like, this was about creating a sleek, beautifully executed, clean silhouette. 

Reused Unity

Combining community with reworked elements Kazna Asker packed a lot to think about in her collection – touching on sustainability, uniting cultures, belonging and political questioning. It’s the mixing of cultural styles along with vintage items, deadstock fabrics and reworked textiles that uniqueness emerges. Winner of Fashion Scout’s Arena competition, Alenkie’s collection is entirely created from deadstock fabrics and vintage items bringing upcycling and reuse to fore.

Teddy Textures

While leather, real or faux, biker jackets made a regular appearance the most dominant trend for outerwear came in the form of cuddly textures, such as fleece, shearling and faux fur. Take note of the statement coats at Burberry and Erdem, and on the chic models strutting in sunglasses at Helen Anthony. Other tactile textures on show included feathers and oversized knits.

By JoJo Iles

Intro image Alex S Yu at Fashion Scout shot by Chris Daw