LFW SS19 Final Day

12-12-2024

Natasha Zinko – Roberta Einer – Mark Fast – UNDERAGE…

Natasha Zinko’s SS19 collection is a riotous display of colour and shape explored through both mens- and womenswear. Colour-blocking is an integral part to this season’s vibe with purple, pink, and highlighter yellow being particularly striking choices. Holographic party pieces, tartan tailoring, and snakeskin separates also make up the collection. Silhouettes are fun yet flattering with voluminous items paired with form-fitting bodysuits or simple tees and bralets. Two-tone suits are an interesting choice to spruce up otherwise classic tailoring and asymmetrical skirts are a favourite this season. Bandage dresses and skirts are monochromatic but graphic with “NATASHA ZINKO” emblazoned across them and denim has been reworked into interesting pieces formed of different washes. Natasha Zinko never fails to deliver something totally wearable yet ultimately eye-catching and this funky streetwear collection is exactly that.

Words by Sophie Lau

Inspired by her love of travel, Roberta Einer took us to Morocco for SS19. The colours, textures, and prints of her fabrics all conjure up a desertscape as we see smocking that resembles sand dunes (seen prominently in a cropped long-sleeved light pink top) and warm earthy tones with accents of blue (to symbolise an oasis) and green (to symbolise the occasional lush foliage). In a time when minimalism is on-trend, Roberta Einer instead prefers maximalism and utilises clashing patterns and a variety of textures in this season’s range. We see organic cottons, silks, Scottish weaves, and Irish linen (which surprisingly looks a lot like denim) as bases for intricate embellishments- laser-cut flower petals, sparkling jewels, sequin badges, and floral embroidery all make an appearance.

Silhouettes are those for the modern traveller; we see oversized blazers and lightweight layers suited for hot days and cool nights. Asymmetrical dresses are gathered at the hip to resemble simple wrap dresses and we also see the brand’s signature bomber jacket. Standout looks include a luxe white pyjama set, a sequinned blazer and shorts co-ord set which mirrors the colours of the sunrise in its pinks, blues, and lilacs, and my favourite look of all, a hoodie worn over what seems to be a long-sleeved printed dress with a high slit.

This whole collection consists of stylish streetwear for the modern traveller and succeeds in being easy and unfussy whilst remaining classy and chic. This season, we have a collaboration with knitwear designers Alice Lee and Kate Brittain, as well as a partnership with family-run carpet business Benyaich who helped create the unique cross-body bags from offcuts of vintage carpets.

Words by Sophie Lau

Mark Fast’s collection this season is perhaps rather unexpected for Spring/Summer as the colour palette is fairly dark and dare I say it, autumnal? Earthy browns, sandy yellows, and muted greens appear in equal measure as the main inspiration is Anuket, the Egyptian goddess of the Nile. Other influences include the bronze sculptures of artist Demétre Chiparus and the painting “The Mist of the Nile” by Wilhelm Kotarbinski. We see nods to an ethereal goddess with slinky dresses in knitted meshes but we also see references to desert predators in crochets and beading which mimic the pattern and texture of scales. Fringing and ostrich feathers sway as they move, evoking the blur and haze of a mirage. Despite being a risky venture for SS19, this collection stays true to Mark Fast’s aesthetic of elegant, innovative knitwear with intricate detailing.

Words by Sophie Lau

With a collection for SS19 entitled “Lucid Dreams”, UNDERAGE explores the world of 80s and 90s Club Kids but updated for the modern day. We see distressed denim mixed with tailored pieces, neons and neutrals side by side, and a juxtaposition of checks and florals. Unconventional silhouettes are created through layering and unlikely fabric combinations; casual womenswear is reinvented with an androgynous feel. Clothing is deconstructed, speaking to a sense of transformation and adventure, and new ways of manipulating fabric allow us to liberate ourselves through our clothing. This collection is an expression of identity and an exploration of our inner desires shown through subversive, disruptive clothing.