Fashion News in Five Minutes – 7th September…
High-end Industry Founded on Unpaid Workers…New York Fashion Week Underway…London Fashion Week A Fur Free Zone…Footfall Down on the High Street for a Second Month…ASOS.com Reveal An Exciting New Label…
Fashion Fabulous and Unpaid. The word is out, although it comes as no surprise to those in the business, the fashion industry is one of the worst culprits for ‘underpaying’ and at times ‘not paying’ its workers. While we regularly read about the ugly side of exploitation and dire working conditions within the manufacturing side of the industry, academic Giulia Mensitieri has now publicly exposed the underhand inner-workings affecting the creative side of the sector.
In particular her research focuses on the wealthy and established fashion houses based in Paris and her findings, originally compiled for her PhD, are now the contents of a book entitled ‘The Most Beautiful Job in the World’. She reveals how many top fashion creatives get paid in clothes vouchers while they struggle to pay rent and that there is a hierarchical construct where such individuals should feel privileged to work for such a brand/designer – payment or not. Since the launch of the book the media have been having a field day: ‘Chanel Shoes, But No Salary’ – The Guardian, “Fashion is an extremely wealthy industry founded on unpaid work” says Mensitieri. Looks like ethical change is required beyond production in the fashion industry!
New York Fashion Week is currently underway with the Tom Ford show attracting those media-friendly A-list celebrities. “I feel that fashion has somehow lost its way a bit, and it is easy for all of us to be swept up in trends that have lost touch with what women and men want to actually wear,” Ford stated in his show notes. His SS19 collection was distinctively 90’s with lean lines and silhouettes that elongate the body. A soft palette of nudes (pictured right), lilacs and pinks flattered skin tones while Ford’s staple black was also prevailent. Proenza Schouler and Rodarte are back on the schedule while Escada returns after a 3-year break with Niall Sloan at the helm.
London Fashion Week – a fur free zone. After Burberry announced earlier this week that it would no longer use fur in its collections London Fashion Week released a statement that: none of the shows or presentations on the official London Fashion Week schedule this September will feature any animal fur. And long may it stay that way!
Footfall down on the high street again. Footfall in August fell by 1.6% on the previous year, a sharper drop than seen in July. Helen Dickinson OBE, Chief-Executive of the British Retail Consortium commented: “British high streets experienced a quiet August this year as the continued squeeze on wages kept consumers away from the shops.
“With fewer shoppers visiting the high street and a difficult overall trading environment the pressure is increasing on retailers as rising public policy costs continue to bite. The Government must take action now and commit to a two year freeze on business rates to help reduce the pressure of this disproportionate tax on retailers and allow for a fundamental reform of the business taxation system.”
And ASOS.com have announced a new-to-market label ‘Collusion’ to launch in October – a brand ‘for the coming age,’ Generation-Z, shaped by, and for, an audience who demand something different from the fashion industry. A year in conception, six young people made up of students, stylists, activists, image-makers, authors and YouTubers – each with their own influential online voices and diverse followings – have taken the label to places it could never have gone alone. The result is Collusion; a fresh fashion proposition anchored by the ideals of collaboration, inclusivity and experimentation. We can’t wait to see what they have come up with!