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LFW Men’s 8th Jan – Day 3

15-07-2020   


PRONOUNCE

PRONOUNCE’s AW18 collection was inspired by a set of vintage postcards which captured snapshots of travel, everyday life, and men’s style. Two infinity signs also appeared throughout, leading to both the use of infinity as the central theme this season and the creation of an infinity symbol badge or the “curve metallic button” which replaced the brand’s iconic horns button. As always, PRONOUNCE champions an East meets West aesthetic, this time seen through traditional Western style tailoring adorned with Asian details, such as Chinese button knots. Amongst wool, leather, quilted cotton, and TPU, a new technological fabric also appears which consists of wool being coated with a film, mimicking the warm yet breathable quality of modern sportswear. The colour palette wasn’t necessarily traditional for Autumn/Winter, but it worked well nonetheless. Greys, browns, and khakis sat alongside shades of blue as well as riotous bursts of acid pinks and salmons, allowing infinite possibilities within one man’s wardrobe. – SL

 

D.GNAK

D.GNAK’s AW18 collection explores ideas concerning transience and impermanence, taking inspiration from the Chinese saying 場 春 夢 (translated as ‘a spring dream’). It is a phrase used to highlight humanity’s tendency to dwell in the past and focus on things that have long since happened and that we have no possibility of ever recreating. This season, D.GNAK is stripping back on all the things that signify wealth or fast fashion and is instead choosing to adopt a meditative way of self-expression. Korean silhouettes are paired with Western tailoring, highlighting the designer’s own identity, and the collection is exclusively crafted in a monochromatic palette. Although fairly simple, the pieces are still graphic and arresting; certain items are adorned with a skull and crossbones and others are sporting the word “REPENTANCE”. D.GNAK this season is therefore asking us what we truly value in our lives, as well as how we should repent for the ways in which we chose to live before. He is telling us that we should pay attention to the simpler, more constant things in the world, rather than chase frivolous fancies. – SL

 

TIMOTHY HAN

Timothy Han presented LFWM with ‘A Sensory Road Trip’ – an immersive launch of his three fragrances ‘New York’, ‘Middle America’ and ‘Pacific Coast’ that each diffused out of sculptural columns positioned throughout the installation. A nostalgia-esque moving film was projected onto the screen as backdrop, created by photographer Ben Dumbar Brunton, and old light-up road signs were positioned around the edge of the room continuing the theme of ‘on the road’. The core of Han’s – who was once Galliano’s assistant and just so happened to fall in the world of perfume – inspiration is his reading. The three fragrances were inspired by his favourite books: The Decay of an Angel by Yukio Mishima, On the Road by Jack Kerouac (who loved apple pie and whiskey which was also served at the event!), and She Came to Stay by Simon de Beauvoir, and this theme was continued into the packaging as the perfume boxes themselves were the shape and size of a paperback. Live music by Miro Shot only added to experience as the three beautiful (and I do not say that lightly) fragrances wafted around the room. Another aspect to Han’s ethos that I thoroughly advocate is that for every new perfume he collaborates with an artist to create the graphic for the packaging. Impressed would be an understatement. – IH

 

BOBBY ABLEY

Bobby Abley ended LFWM with his ‘Bobbyland’ collection – starring characters from the alternate universe of Warner Bros Looney Tunes: think Road Runner, Sylvester and Speedy Gonzales. Rapper KillASon opened the show with his grill a-flashing and personality aplenty, swaggering down the catwalk to his own track ‘Hoddest in My Town’ – the anthem of the show. Models’ faces were coated in fine glitter, bunny ear bandanas sprung from models heads and encrusted gems were everywhere – this was streetwear amped up to the max. Looney Tunes graphics in vivid clashing lilacs and pinks hung over models in knitted textures. The model inclusivity and gender neutrality (the only neutral part of this uber colourful show) was yet another positive. Male models sported oversized sweatshirts so long they became maxi dresses; female models wore trousers and shorts. Bobbyland; ‘Where Everyone is Welcome’, and where joy is rife. – IH

Reports by Sophie Lau and India Hunnikin

Related articles:

LFW Men’s January 2018 – Street Style

LFW Men’s 6th Jan 2018 – Day 1

LFW Men’s 7th Jan 2018 – Day 2




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