Capsule Paris: DENHAM
Formerly studied in the UK and launched in Amsterdam the tailors ‘Scissor’ logo (used as part of the stand design) is taken from originals passed down to Jason from his grandfather and homage to his memory and craft.
Denham is one of those brands that are getting to that ‘think you’ve seen them everywhere’ place in the mind. And as Alex Harris of Options, representing them in their showroom in Shoreditch said “We are much more than what is on display, there’s an entire complement of menswear apparel in addition to the jeans.” Reasons for visiting the showroom if any were needed. For many brands, the event is only a primer for inviting the buyer to see full collection(s) at their showroom, where real business takes place and the relationship is deepened.
A wonderful deep navy indigo corduroy jean caught my eye – due a big revival methinks. “There’s 691 stitches in the Denham logo alone on those,” Alex points out. “We had the drainpipe look, the skinny look, now it’s a more relaxed look.”
What you see is a brand that clearly is in love with its chosen medium. “We work across virgin, raw denim, through to vintage. We source Italian virgin denim from the world-famous Candiani mill exclusively, one of the first denim mills in Italy. We can show the customer the transition in denim from 1 to 2, 2-3 years or more, with washes based on a natural wash pattern and a style based on a natural wearing pattern.” As if the denim had taken on the DNA of the wearer and it was being represented in the garment.
Like many who work with traditional fabrics, the archives including 1900s Levis continuously inspire them. Complementing the denim on display are Pea coat styled jackets made in Italy, drawing from Royal Navy history including reflective stitching in the lapels, plus full length flannel coats – all have a raw finished quality that never strays from a love of the fabric coaxing a natural textured feel as part of the overall aesthetic.
Always good to learn something new. Alex told me about the 7-point pocket concept incorporated within their designs. “Because we have seven points on our hands. It’s from how laborers used their pockets for tools with a requirement that their hands had an easy access fit.” Functional in every sense. “The truth is in the details. There’s always a purpose to why something was designed.”
This was their second showing at Capsule and I asked how it was working for them. “Because of the brand environment it’s the same buyers who go to Man, not at Tranoi.” Having visited Man, I would have to agree that they are the closest in brand aesthetic, with a number of distinctions, and both clearly not Tranoi.
Looking forward to seeing the full collection in Shoreditch soon.
By Paul Markevicius