Capsule Paris: TYLER & TYLER
Many pukka trade shows require recommendations for new entrants – it eases the process of selection and validates consideration. Tyler & Tyler’s (T&T) Richard Tyler, director, explained that at Pitti, Florence they hoped to have a pop-up in the Pavilion next show having originally applied for January. There are two committees, one to say if the brand is good enough, another to allocate positioning within the venue. This slightly grand posturing ensures a degree of quality control that ultimately benefits all who show and visit. And usually at a higher price.
Long established in the UK domestic market, with collar stiffeners, cufflinks, lapel pins – and all manufactured in Birmingham, “We started doing our own manufacturing because we could see what was happening when we designed for other brands.” He was too much of a gentleman to go into detail, but aside from greater control of production, it’s far better to keep the IP intact and remove the temptation to, err copy. In fashion? No, never.
Like Derek Rose in the UK, it’s great to see the parents still in the business – the father as MD, mother as company secretary.
What’s new for this company and new to Capsule I asked? “Victoriana is having a huge influence. Lapel pins is a new trend, allowing men to accessorize in a new way and make a period statement.” The great thing about this line of accessories is, “it isn’t seasonal like a clothing range. If it isn’t selling, we just stop making it.” Interestingly, most of the techniques of dye-stamping and the machining processes all date back to the original methods. The new cufflinks are a departure point, including non-enameled colors. “Hi-tech manufactured with aircraft grade aluminium, and a finish the same as a Formula 1 engine.” Light as a feather, yet with a deliberate tactile finish and named after Birmingham’s industrial founding fathers. Currently T&T accessories are stocked in all 44 John Lewis Stores, Liberty’s in London, Daniels of Windsor (by Royal Appointment, no less), Jarrolds of Norwich among others.
They deserve to penetrate and develop the Asian market, particularly Japan who are admirers of historical, well-made brand UK, (and contemporary hi-end brands / styling) following on from a UKti trade mission T&T made to Japan recently.
Not sure about the socks, belts and ties that were on display but to be fair, one would need to see it all working in a showroom / retail outlet to know if they can leverage these other specialist items onto their established shirt accessories brand also.
By Paul Markevicius