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LFW – Day 1 review


The day started with Paul Costelloe, which I am told, by fashion journalist Rivkie Baum, was a mixture of medieval and punk.

Harold Tillmann

After this the opening of LFW was led by Harold Tillman and Sarah Brown, with a touching tribute to Alexander McQueen. A minutes silence was held, it was hard to reflect on his life and achievements however with some idiot explaining directions to a mate on the phone in a loud obnoxious voice.

Caroline Charles

My first show was Caroline Charles. A conservative, chic collection with a touch of sparkle and sass to ‘young it up’. The gold beading added an Indian edge and some of the cuts were quite oriental looking. Parts were fabulous and I noticed the emerging hunter, country retreat trend with hounds tooth, brown check and knee high riding boots.

Next was Prophetic. After a drinks reception (where you had to pay for drinks) and a wait of almost an hour, the show begun with a musical piece. Just to make you wait even longer. The violin was joined by a guitar on the catwalk and eventually some models turned up.

The theme was based around the American civil war and sustainability. The colour pallet was a range of neutral green, blue and grey tones. The garments were all made from sustainable/recycled materials but the use of them was neither exciting nor obvious.

There were big buttons, military jackets and tapered trousers tucked into, again, knee high hunter boots. The collection reminded me of Cinderella, before she gets magicked into a ball gown. With big washed out skirts and puffed sleeves. I loved the puffed elbow details, the big shoulders and casual draping of material. The clothes were also loads of gorgeous waistcoats. There was a lot of gender ambiguity within the collection with the little difference between the styles. It was an interesting collection but it went on for far too long and the contrasting music styles grated on me.

Reading the overview I discovered that the band was made up of members of Def Leppard and the Sex Pistols. This excited my once musical mind, but mixing it with a DJ mix of ‘greatest hits’ ruined its hard core down to earth appeal.

AksuBora Aksu


After this I headed to Bora Aksu. The collection was gorgeous. Twisted, laddered knits and deconstruction throughout. The silhouette was very much focus around big exaggerated hips and little waists. The fabric and colour varied from pale pink through to pink then silver and black. I loved this collection and can’t wait to work with the Bora Aksu label in Bicester village!

Next for me was a quick hair cut! Tony and Guy are once more offering free hair cuts to the press and I was a nightmare customer, changing my mind and taking phone calls half way through. After this I headed of to the On/Off presents show featuring our very own Samantha Cole!

Samantha ColeSamantha Cole

Samantha opened the On/Off show with an eery all white collection. There were her signature angular pieces with high collars and geometric lines.  I loved that although the collection was all white it was diverse in shape and style. There were padded dresses with rounded necks, a petalled tulip skirt, exaggerated shoulders and clean cut lines. The styling was stunning. The models had frizzy backcombed hair, spritzed with white hairspray and collars were worn over the hair to pull it into the neck.

Derek Lawlor

Other designers at On/Off included Derek Lawlor with funky, modern knit wear using wax cord to create amazing structured pieces.


Another was Txell Miras with models in balaclavas, deconstruction, straps, draping and brilliant innovation.

Mister & MisterMister & Mister

My favourite, after Cole, was Mister & Mister. The menswear designer included a leather all in one tux and a fur tux too. Obviously inspired and based on formal menswear this designer gave us so much more. Plus when the designer came out onto the catwalk and took a bow, he was as beautiful as his collection.

Overall day one has been a long day. Scattered with industry shmoozing, wine and talent. London Fashion Week; bring it on.

Jemima Daisy x

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