Alternative Fashion Week Review – Day 4 by Christa Catharina Muller
26-03-2007
Recent graduates both in fashion and textiles across several market sectors previewed their work at the Spitalfields Traders Market last week. Covering women’s and menswear as well footwear designs, swimwear and fantasywear collections the freezing audience saw some wannabes plus a handful of inspiring talent.
FashionCapital picks out the top 5 from Thursday’s catwalk presentation:
1 Eleanor Callaghan
Brighton-based independent fashion label Eleanor Callaghan showed a diverse collection called Dig for Victory. Using vintage textiles such as modernist printed bedspreads, kitsch duvet covers and brocade curtains her designs gave a big nod to vintage fashion in general. Her designs included voluminous cropped trousers in orange, ecru and brown combined with bright coloured tights. The dresses were short and tulip shaped emphasizing the waist. Brocade dresses with zigzag patterns in gold, grey and ecru showed a more luxurious and mainstream approach while her neon star prints strongly evoked 80s pyjamas. Bathing caps and porcelain doll make-up completed the look fabulously.
Alternative score: 8/10
2 Nico Didonna
The best men’s collection was by Nico Didonna. It included quirky and urban styles as well as understated and sophisticated looks, which felt like the perfect balance between English lord and rock star chic. The outfits were not only innovative in design, but also very fitted. The hairstyles recalled a bad hair day while wrap cardigans and coats showed a more elegant side. Robin Hood like capes were combined with zipped jeans and the look was finished with gold Converse boots. The designer described his collection as ‘classical with a twist for the discerning gentleman.’ Nico Didonna also showed off-schedule at London Fashion Week in February.
Alternative score: 7/10
3 Rolanda Redway
Rolanda Redway’s collection Moyah was all about sexy street chic. Dramatic cuts revealed acres of skin, but Redway tried to balance the outfits. By combining oversized hoods with fitted silhouettes she managed to give the collection an edge. All the outfits featured graphic elements which were recalled on jeans or dresses adding a little spark to the dark base colours. The mood of the collection was that of a Hip-Hop video clip combined with original and modern references.
Alternative score: 6/10
4 Fam Irvoll
Fashion graduate Fam Irvoll was inspired by the film Alice in Wonderland. Her designs featured a more dreamy approach with paler colours and playful elements such as small ribbons, big flowers or knitted hearts. Hoods were equipped with rabbit ears and models wore Bambi masks and bubble skirts with beaded blossoms. Some of the designs took the theme to the other extreme with shocking shades and an almost 80s flavour. One such print flashed back to Jennifer Lopez circa 1980s before the fame and polish. Funny details such as striped leggings or big bows attached to knickers added a playful appeal to the fantasy.
Alternative score: 9/10
5 Middlesex University
Middlesex University showed their latest collection at the end of day four at AFW. Their designs stood out for their millinery creations and use of colourful print. The hats came in many different styles: cuts ranged from cubes to sun dials. A strong colour palette was a vital part of the collection. Prints were very pop art, statements were written on shirts and asymmetrical cuts were dominant. Metal was incorporated in some designs to give form and an extravagant swing. All in all a very optimistic range of clothing.
Alternative score: 8/10
Unfortunately, the fashion market surrounding the catwalk did not profit from the cold weather. Who wants to browse when it is snowing? So most people just rushed through buying things occasionally. The designers were also quite quick at packing up at 3pm sharp but the mood in general was chatty and welcoming.
Highlights of the market were the Ikitaki Trazita boots which come in many different patterns and colours. The innovative twist to these Japanese style shoes is that they separate the toes which theoretically make them more comfortable to walk in and visually more interesting to look at. The boots definitely get a point for alternative style. Circe’s Knicker Draw had a range of colourful underwear and sleeping masks with tropical and vintage prints, e.g. flamingos and polka dots. Playing with frills, lace and colour the range was quite appealing.
Swatch Alternative Fashion Week was held from 19-23 March. The annual event is presented by Alternative Arts and sponsored by Spitalfields Estate and Swatch. Alternative Arts, a publicly funded art organization, produced and directed the catwalk shows free of charge to the designers. Collections were taken up for the AIDS charity Terrence Higgins Trust.
By Christa Catharina Muller
Images and assistance by Oana Schutz
