Searching and sustaining: A little travel through history
01-09-2008
I will try to make this ride as short as possible so that you don´t fall asleep during the lecture, but I promise it will make you see the future clearer.
Looking at some archives of the Kyoto Costume Institute and its "Evolution of Fashion 1835-1895" and "Japanism in Fashion", made me think of why such exhibition, that aimed at introducing the world history of Western fashion and the influence of the Kimono in contemporary fashion where so well received and powerful that were able to travel throughout 6 years around the 5 major world fashion cities.



Have you ever wonder where did all the embroidery and silk of those days came from? Well, the fact is that Europeans and the fashion sector have not just started looking at the eastern countries during this century. China provided, during those days, the exquisite embroidery and decorative arts that the aristocracy demanded; patterns, colours and textiles of that time are due to the imports developed from China those days. They very soon became a status symbol of wealth, just like the ones we talked about in the previous article, and achieved such a great popularity that even governmental bans to imports had to be settled!
Also Japan had a role in this scenario: its traditional kimonos were highly appreciated in those times, but as nowadays, as the importation was very limited, Europe sought for another , faster and cheaper supplier: India. It was not until Christophe P.Oberkampt set up a new printing technique from England in Versailles, that printing factories suddenly blossomed throughout the 18th century all over Europe. Anglo-mania, another interesting movement, as Europe did not only look at the rest of the world in their search for inspirations, they also looked at their nearer countries and its important figures! Voltaire introduced its Anglo-mania when he returned to France in 1728, Shakespeare introduced with his words the English spirit to the Germans, English food was offered at Parisian dinners…and today, well, today we all look at London when seeking for new fashion spots and trends.
Interesting, interesting how The French revolution gave rise to replace the silk for cotton, and how with the labour of the press and women magazines of the period the elegance of the court costumes was confronted by simple and ordinary clothing style…doesn´t it look like the current scenario of luxury fashion VS high-end and fast fashion brands?

Well, maybe….looking at the past will make us take a step towards a better future….
To be continuous….for sure
By A.H
LinkINg: http://www.kci.or.jp/