LFW Sept 08 – Bernard Chandran
Drawing on eastern influences with an injection of futuristic flamboyance – Chadran's archetypal lean tailoring was splashed with lashings of crystals and edgy metal studs. Each design was bold and dramatic with thigh high slits on mini shifts and envelopes of pure mocha silk draped upon billowing shorts.
New dimensions were created through the use of the Kerawang cutting method which added new textures to each outfit. The use of Shantung silk and lace adornments superimposed shoulders, rears and hips. Humorous additions such as sumo inspired quilted silk belts wreathed structured mini dresses adding volume and interest.
A striking black strapless mini-dress was shot into the future with a Japan-motif red cut out bow tie that overshadowed an otherwise traditional western cut. Chandran's motifs were far removed from oriental predictabilities and nodded to Eastern pop culture.
Collars were exaggerated; baseball caps were stretched forward to almost comic extremes – it was almost a sarcastic interpretation of Disney cult heroes of yore.
Block colour was celebrated with English mustard, cornflower blue, galactic silver and black prevailing throughout the show. Cuts, slits and folds were optimistically future-forward with fabrics finished like origami paper cutouts.
Dazzling specks of metallic draped the shoulders of outstanding floor length gowns, arching towards the base of the spine. Chandran's referencing of global power-couture houses was evident and so far removed from atypical oriental motifs. Metallic bronze pieces exuded glamour and reeked of success.
Glittering, glamorous, opulent – yet forward thinking, Chandran's hot Asian collection will shine a light on the exhibitionist trapped inside that LBD.
Words Grainne Byrne