The Style Report
By Vanessa Camelia
From our first STYLE REPORT we looked at shape and form but made it clear that this was not by any means ‘tailoring’. This week we look at tailoring and how it is to make a huge come back for Spring/Summer 2009. Androgynous tailoring will once again return to the catwalks, seeing this as a huge trend for S/S 09.
Yves Saint Laurent was the very first designer to experiment with this look and was most famous for his ‘Le Smoking’ – the first tuxedo for women which debuted on the catwalk in 1966.
The tuxedo has been re-worked by our times finest cutter and tailor – Alexander McQueen. Alexander McQueen has produced an absolute killer collection for SS 09, which mixes up male and female references with sheer precision. Alexander McQueen’s aim was to challenge our perception of fashion through his creative genius.
This trend will no doubt be picked up by the high street as this trend is set to a really accelerate off the shelves.
Let’s start with the pin stripe jumpsuit which is McQueen’s take on the tuxedo. This stunning jumpsuit has very deep v neck front to aid the sexuality of a women whilst maintaining the masculine edge. Slim fitting pants cut high on the waist, worn with a tiny belt simply sum up what this collection is about.
Not one to be dull McQueen has used a stunning optical graphic print on the column dress, which draws your eyes into the waist giving the illusion of a smaller waist which would work well for boyish figures. The dress is cut just above the knee with pagoda shoulder pads emphasise the overall look. The way in which this dress is cut and moves with the body is simply stunning.
The silver grey liquid satin trapeze dress, which is cut on the bias, introduces us to a new shape of evening dress. The flesh coloured insert along the neckline is used throughout the collection and is used to subltly explore femininity (a womans flesh).
The corset dress is the collections key piece which is double boned forming that unique structure. This suit is extremely masculine yet retains its femininity with the heart shape bodice with flesh panel running right down to the waist. The waist is clichéd in which also narrows the torso. The whole suit is beautifully constructed with unique tailoring precision.
This pipped trim dress is extremely flattering with the cleaver use of streamed like piping which runs down the front and the back of the dress, the beauty of this dress is that it sits beautifully on the waist through the form fitted tailored bodice.
This cool and original evening statement with cleaver use of masculine tailoring is another masterpiece. This black tuxedo satin lapel jumpsuit with plunging neckline is a real show stopper. The trousers are cut high on the waist which makes the legs look really long. This suit can be worn for evening cocktail parties and has been accessories with neon belt – stunning!
This is where the androgynous look really comes into force. This stunning dinner suit exudes masculinity whilst again it maintains femininity through the flesh coloured peek-a-boo pocket detail. A pagoda shoulder amplifies skinny arms and a tiny wait. This is a great contour shape extremely androgynous.
Lastly this little black satin asymmetrical dress is the perfect cocktail dress with true McQueen markings. Cut off the shoulder with asymmetrical hemline gives this dress classic McQueen signature. This dress has a draped bodice which skims the body. He has used contrast throughout this collection through flesh coloured inserts and here he has inserted flesh coloured crepe into the lining.
This is a trend not to be missed….