Welcome to the new Fashion Crowd . . .

It has been nearly six months since I last got the chance to catch a show, and with the couture shows in Paris next week, I was pleased to warm up tonight with the LCF MA Graduates.

This was a real A-List fashion event, with the likes of Grayson Perry and Hilary Alexander on front row, the students had to impress.

The show was predominantly menswear, which meant a lot of tailoring. For some it became quite repetitive and I was longing to see something new and innovative. Menswear collections that deserve recognition were:

• Marina Nicolaidou who produced a fully white collection that referenced Middle Easter vibes with cool crepe/cotton like trousers, tunics and harem pants.

• Anette Whalstroms fairly classic but beautifully tailored collection of dress coats and suiting in dove greys, silvers and off whites. I was particularly fond of the pleated trouser fronts that were both loose and structured at the same time.

• Jie Pi created an extremely 80's but fun collection. Full on sequin glamour in a rainbow of colours that had a real ‘Super Super' feel to it. Full on metallics meant that one was distracted from the well cut garments on show, but overall a very playful selection with excellent styling.

• Dimitri Stavrou is, as my colleague suggested, the new Gareth Pugh. This menswear collection was hard hitting. Excellently cut and fantastically designed. We gushed over 80's metallic golds, silvers and wet look black, adorned beautifully with asymmetrically embroidered, oversized tassels, it was love at first sight. I must admit, a little bit obsessed with this one!

 

Womenswear is often seen as the more exciting of the pair and though the show lacked in women's collections, there were a few that should be noted as ones to watch.

First up the brilliant knitwear collection by Emilia Bariamova, which reminded me of Simone Shailles, with its voluminous, knitted pieces, with structured necklines and well constructed shoulders. These cute mini dresses, styled well with opaque tights could be an instant hit. I can exclusively reveal that this collection was one of Nicola Roberts (Girls Aloud) favourites of the night!

 
Others that caught my eye were Youn Kyoung Choi (Tessa), who created a soft and feminine collection with a forties feel. I loved the silvery tones, and detailed bold black buttons. The cutting was fabulous and the pencil skirts and loose tailored jackets were to me ‘the perfect way of dressing'.

 
Hsiang Ju Kung created a show stopping selection of tassel style pieces, with huge volume and folds, cape like sleeve adorned mini dresses and hugged the models into angelic white costumes. It had a dramatic, ‘Swan Lake feel' and was very creative.

Yun Jo Ko (Kate), also deserves a mention for her floaty pieces, that wouldn't look out of place on the red carpet. Empire line dresses, dip dyeing, high waists and structured jackets showed truly strong cutting skills and the toffee and blue hues were a beautiful combination.

Words Rivkie Baum

Directors Comments:

Congratulations to all the graduates who showcased at LCF MA Show last night, on the whole there was a high standard of work and quality of make; I do however believe that there was a strong propensity towards structured tailoring and not enough soft separates being explored.

 

There was a tendency towards classic hues and consequently collections that had a predominance of colour were really highlighted on the catwalk. In every collection on display there were notable capsule garments which were a pleasure to see.

 

I certainly believe that the winner Manjit Deu was well deserved with his excellent pattern work and colour palette and in particular his outstanding embellishment.

 

Jenny Holloway