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Stephane Rolland



The Tokyo Palais was a grand venue, and the huge runway filled up quickly. Front rowers looked incredible, and the atmosphere was really quite electric. The show started with six looks approaching the catwalk; one by one they took up their position in time with the music. The six, all black looks were paying homage to an origami theme, with sleek, pencil cut dresses embellished with origami like folds on the front, almost like paper sculptured across the body. This was a mixture of silks and chiffons, creating a very feminine but artistic collection. Giant ruffles adorned the side of one dress, and the girls really looked like beautifully wrapped presents.

Not being familiar with Paris etiquette, at the end of the six looks the crowd clapped and cheered, and being a newbie, I was convinced that the show was over, and felt rather cheated. Fear not though, this is just Paris, and the baying crowd were merely whopping in appreciation of what they had seen so far, as if the designer would stop showing his collection without appropriate reactions.

The first six looks were incredible and Stephan used these as the basis to further develop and unfold the collection. Black dresses moved in to the contrasting white, and soon models were sashaying in pleated box jackets, that still managed to hug the body. The white collection was accented with a caramel, making the clothes looked like they had been dipped in the sweet syrup. Pleats continued to be the theme, with both big pleated collars and sectioned off areas.

The final colour choice was announced with a floor length red dress that had all the hallmarks of a Valentino. The front long ruffle was tipped white, looking like the edge had been spray painted or dip dyed.

In line with couture fabrics were a mixture of what appeared to be raw silks, detailed with chiffon panelling to reveal the models backs. One of my favourite pieces was a dress, back in white chiffon, and detailed with tiny red buttons running down the back. It's these final touches that really set it apart.

The crowd continued to whoop with enjoyment, a trend I think we should adopt in London. Dresses became more regal and Oscar-style, as floor length gowns were now embellished with diamonds, coins and mosaic like tiles. This was beauty to the max.

In line with past seasons, Rolland had plenty of embellishment and carried on this season's love of Perspex. Draped dresses appeared fastened (although I'm sure this was only for show) with moulded plastic bows (think previous seasons of Victor and Rolf), and acted like the controller of voluminous shapes and drapes that made the models look like magical creatures.

With each new shape and floor length gown, the fashionista's got wilder, I was sure they would eventually be jumping out of their seats. As the show came to a close and one by one the models that were covered by that point in delicate mosaic pieces and crystal embellishment, Rolland appeared for a quick wave to rapturous applause. One of the most beautiful things I have ever seen in all my life!

Favourite Pieces:

·         Red silk dress, with cap sleeves embellished in crystals/mosaics, a fully draped back, fastened with a Perspex bow.

·         The huge asymmetric collared dresses and jackets, the collars looked like they were made of paper.

Styling: As the dresses were so complicated and detailed, make up was beautifully simple and hair scraped back high in a ponytail, off the face and neck, prefect.

There were slight gothic elements to the collection this was noted with both short and long fingerless PVC gloves, loved it!

Shoes – No Idea was too distracted by the dresses!

Read more Paris stories at… http://fash-pack.blogspot.com/


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