French Fashion Industry Revealed
20-03-2009
For the last few days I have truly embraced the French way of life and happy to report it was a very pleasant experience!
Having only ever visited gay Paris before I thought I knew what to expect; the usual discerning glances of dismay that you are not fluent in their language and aloof but all be it very chic Parisians knocking innocent tourists down with the latest oversized LV handbag. I was wrong, outside of the fashion capital is a very different way of life and although I was there to visit Ateliers for high end fashion designers such as Balenciaga and Christian Lacroix the people, atmosphere and overall experience could not have been more welcoming and down to earth!
On Sunday I flew into a wonderfully sunny Nantes in Western France. I was joined by Kate Ambler, Press Officer for the French Trade Commission and Sarah Dennis, Materials Editor at WGSN. Greeted at the airport by Charlene Fuzeaus from APHO, Association for the promotion of the clothing trade in Western France, we were then all driven by our Chauffer to the delightful seaside town of Saint-Hilaire-de-Reiz. The town offers 12 kilometres of fine sandy beaches surrounded by dunes and as we arrived the sun was about to set so all in all it could not have been a more perfect start!
The hotel was simply divine. Hotel Frederic is the ultimate French dream with exquisite décor and views of the ocean on your doorstep. Roland Mouret stays at the hotel when visiting ACC, the couture house which produces his collection and it was clear to see why.
That evening we were driven to the next town, as explained to us everything is closed on a Sunday in France, so apparently is was difficult to find a restaurant open, however one was found and an evening of typical French food and wine was embarked on! We were joined by Laurent Vandebbor, Executive manager of APHO and Marie-Therese Grelet, Director of Ateliers Cannelle Couture, where we were to visit the next morning.
Marie is a very dynamic individual with a contagious aura of energy and passion for her business. Since 1972 she has followed a rich and instructive career path making tailor-made clothing then in 2000 she acquired ACC and became Director at the workshop. Although Marie could not speak a word of English and unfortunately my French is non existent we were still able to communicate over the occasional frog's leg and her enthusiasm for fashion shone through!
Ateliers Cannelle Couture
The next morning we met Marie at her company, ACC, for a guided tour around the workshop. It was unusually quiet but this was because they were in between seasons; having just done Paris Fashion Week this time of year is when the workers generally take their holiday. It was a shame not to be able to see them in action but it also gave us an opportunity to have a good look around.
The foyer was dominated by an oversized cactus, and then as you entered the workshop you could see on the wall images of the catwalk shows the company had produced collections for. This was used as motivation for the workers! Catwalk shows from Jonathon Saunders, Balenciaga and Roland Mouret all looked very impressive and even pictures of Roland Mouret at the factory signing his initials on the fabric could be seen.
Other designers ACC work for are; Chloe, Christian Lacroix, Giles, Karl Lagerfeld, Nina Ricci, Sonia Rykiel and Todd Lynn. There are 65 people who work at ACC and they are constantly being trained and up skilled so each member of staff can cover a wide range of skills. The makers like to be challenged so they can compete with other top notch companies!
Worker ironing Balenciaga top ready to be delieverd that day
After being taken around the workshop to review the machinery and equipment Marie took us to her office where she proudly showed us the trophies she has won at the Made in France event. Made in France is a competition for manufacturers who compete to win an award for the best technical skills which are demonstrated in one garment. ACC has won two of these trophies.
ACC was the first couture house we visited and it was simply fascinating, not knowing what to expect before this it stood us in good stead for the rest of the trip.
Getex
The next company was Getex who specialise in outerwear such as jackets and waterproof coats and performance sportswear. Getex have two companies, one based in France and the other in Tunisia called Fermyl where they produce professional garments for the Navy, Army, Police force, firemen etc.
Its customers include Kenzo, Lacroix, Celine and Chanel.
At Getex 60 workers create the ready to wear garments and they have leading manufacturing equipment to specialise in working with the fabrics they use. To begin the tour of the workshop we were shown a selection of the garments they had produced which were on display in the foyer. These ranged from a padded, tweed jacket and skirt combo for Chanel to the 2004 Olympic Games white fur trim coat.
We were then taken to the research room where workers produce patterns using CAD/CAM programmes. Often they would simply receive a sketch from the designer then they would have to research what the patterns would be and how to put it all together. This was all done on the computer as was the grading and pattern placing.
Sketch from Christian Lacroix
Worker using Lectra software
We were then shown around the factory to see the workers in action.
Getex demonstrated an interesting contrast to ACC as their specialities and types of garments were totally different. This enabled us review two different aspects to the industry which was very insightful.
Socovet
We then visited a company called Socovet who has been working with leading designers for over 35 years. The owner Tony Herblot gave us a guided tour of the factory. It was a shame to see they had no workers in at all. Although this time of year is usually quiet as between seasons it really showed how the economy is affecting businesses around the world.
The company began 37 years ago with 30 staff, only 2 of which were qualified, the rest of the workers learnt on the job. Over the years the workers have gradually become more and more skilled thus the quality and expertise has improved greatly. There are now 46 members of staff who are all highly skilled and specialise in dresses and draping.
Automatic cutting machine in the factory
Lycee de la Mode – College of Fashion
The next day started with a tour of the College of Fashion, Lycee de la Mode. The college was particularly impressive due to its strong integration of education and industry. It is also the only college in France which has invested in training with companies in industry. Local companies have actually changed their methods of working to incorporate new technologies and procedures thus capturing a whole new market. This helps both the students at the college and of course the company.
Vincent Guitton, Director and Lucile Fourage, Designer, showed us around the college
The students are taught so that the transition from college to industry is seamless and the methods and technology they incorporate into their studies match those they would use in the real fashion industry.
We were first shown the three plotters they had invested in. These machines enabled students to digitally print patterns and work on them electronically via the Lectra software. At the moment they could only do prototypes but plans for the future are to invest in more technology and continually evolve the software.
Students come from all over France to attend Lycee de la Mode and it is its reputation and collaboration with industry that has secured a partnership with the London College of Fashion. Students from both colleges take part in exchange programmes giving them a unique insight into how the other operates.
The students at Lycee de la Mode are taught all apects of the industry including business studies, how to present their designs and there is a strong emphasis on the technical side. It was commented that although London is known for is creativity and experimental nature, which is fantastic, many students graduate not knowing how to adapt to industry. Many students from Lycee de la Mode go straight into work after graduating and do not find the transition alien at all.
We were then shown around the college where we could see the students in action and examples of their work.
The next place on the agenda was couture house Court Metrage. I have to say the entrance to this company was by far the most impressive, with red carpeted stairs leading up to a double door way and mini mannequin ornaments decorating the foyer.
Court Metrage is a research development company for patterns and prototypes, so unlike the other workshops they do not mass produce the garments instead they research and develop the patterns and produce prototypes and one off catwalk pieces for clients. Again clients are top of the range, luxury designers such as Burberry, DKNY, Nina Ricci and Chloe.
The different services include; creation of toiles from rough sketches, creation of flat pattern drafts, fitting toiles, realisation of first pattern and alterations.
Karine Boutolleau bought the company in 2005 and since then has won two awards for best re-launched company. Karine showed us around; this workshop was smaller than the others and only had 7 members of staff and 2 apprentices who were from Lycee de la Mode.
As we walked around the workers were busy working on a toile for a new client, which was unfortunately confidential so Karine couldn't disclose who the designer was!
Bocage Avenir
The last company was Bocage Avenir Couture and Manager Jean Normand gave us the guided tour. Since 2000 Avenir Couture has worked with clients including Balenciaga, Christian Lacroix, Kenzo, Karl Lagerfled and Nina Ricci. Founded in 1956 it was one of the first manufacturers in France.
There are 70 members of staff, with 5 different groups making up the production lines. Each line has anywhere between 2 to 12 members depending on what they are making. Bocage Avenir produces all styles including dresses, skirts, shirts and jackets. They are able to use fragile fabrics such as silk and organza.
This is Bocage Avenir's dress which demonates all the skills they can incorporate into a garment
Their speciality lies within the variety of machinery they have. They are known for their machines.
This is a smocking machine which rouches up the fabric, there are 45 needles.
Worker ironing a Celine dress for the next collection. This can take up to 2 hours to iron just one dress.
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The neck labels are all hand stitched.
Bocoge also work for new and emerging fashion designers and a name to look out for in the future in Url Pickins. We were shown the garments that have just been produced for this designer and the detail was simply exquisite.
This is the lining for a luxury denim jacket. The fabric was sourced from Japan which is Organic and felt very deluxe.
Bocage was the final company so after this visit it was the end of our French fashion experience. The two days were certainly intensive but they provided a fantastic insight into the couture houses and fashion industry in France.
A huge thank you to all the companies who opened their doors to us and of course APHO, the Association for the Promotion of Clothing Industries in Western France for making this a possibility.
Jenni Sutton
