Zimmermann
19-05-2009
Fashion week hung in the wings but it wasn’t long before the electricity came thundering back down the catwalk, in the form of Amazonian swimsuit clad models donning a sumptuous array of delicious outfits, jump starting onlookers from their dazed, pre skinny latte state. The Zimmermannn woman is all grown up this season with style vs. substance, both coming out on top. It was a decidedly more directional look, which encapsulated intricate detailing, unconventional construction and innovative manipulation methods visibly apparent throughout the whole collection exploring diversity while also giving it a cohesive feel.
The collection is entitled ‘bittersweet night shade’ named after a toxic flower that only blooms at night, striking a contradiction of beauty, tainted by poison with just an edge of nastiness. The first look consisted of manipulated and embellished swimsuits with not a bikini in sight. Grecian twisted pleats sculpted the figure, drawing the eye lightly over the feminine silhouette, knotted and nipped in at waspy waists. Strapless sweetheart shaped bathing suits were adorned with macramé detailing embellishment and cut out panels, tapering towards the torso and laced together as though the model has been sewn in. The complexity of the detailing was carried out in the same vivid block colours of the bathing suits, executed in aquamarine, Fuchsia and coral. Using mono colour simplified the look so that it didn’t look too forced or contrived.
The look carried forward to the clothing, displaying a softer, tailored look in comparison to the amped-up femme fatale from the onset. The materials and palate were softer than the punchy pinks and aquamarines. There was muted silk prints, exuding sophistication, appearing on cropped strapless corseted brassieres, hinting a healthy glow of midriff when paired with refined pleat front harems in whispering beige. Billowing asymmetric silk dresses displayed flaps and flounces giving an ethereal softness and a windswept fluttering with even the tiniest movement.
The collection revved up again towards the finale as black was teamed with gingery gold leopard print, appearing on voluminous silk kaftans with bundles of fabric ribbon jutting out in a cowl shaped necklace in matching print. Memorable pieces included a tea rose slouch jump suit, fluidly draped and executed in a beautiful antique floral print, straight from grandmas couch, diffused in soft jade, terracotta and dusky peach.
Visually arousing punchy colours and diffused prints combined with effortless draping and manipulation detail, have created a diverse sophistication Zimmermann should be proud of. This collection has been laboriously conceptualised and worked on and showcases Zimmermann’s technical skills and unbridled maverick vision. Looking forward to what comes next, watch this space!
By Lynsay McConachie
Photographs by Hamish Ta-mé
What is the inspiration behind this year’s collection?
As we worked on the collection, we came up with a name – Bittersweet Nightshade. This really beautiful plant only flowers at night and all parts are toxic.
What are the key pieces in your collection?
Rope print asymmetric dress, Rose print lattice dress and Aqua corset one -piece swimsuit
Some up the look of your label in 4 words?
Fresh, sexy, optimistic and unique
How would you like to see your label progress in the future?
We always work to do everything better and would like to continue to present more amazing collections on after another.
If you could give one piece of advice to aspiring fashion designers what would it be?
Find your own design aesthetic and be prepared to work really hard.
What was your first job in the industry?
I have always loved swimwear and I worked for a small swimwear label as an assistant.
Which designers have inspired you?
Those that have achieved longevity and continue to create something new time and time again.
Who is your muse?
N/A
What do you love about Australian fashion?
Australian fashion is fresh and always has something unique to say. Australians have a distinctive perspective of fashion that cannot be found anywhere else in the world.
Who would you like to see wearing your clothes?
I love seeing any girl who has chosen to wear our clothes and has her own take on how to wear them. I also love Kate Moss and Clementine Posie.
If you weren’t a fashion designer who would you be?
A florist
What is your biggest fashion related regret?
I had a pair of purple satin Patrick Cox loafers once.
How would you describe your own personal style?
Understated, modern and feminine.
Where is your favourite place in the whole world?
Tamarama, Sydney, nowhere can ever feel better than home.
If you could do a fashion shoot encapsulating your life, label and who you are, how would you style it? Describe the scene.
It would be shot by a beach, it would be relaxed and carefree with all my closest family and friends around me and it would be honest.
Questions By Lynsay McConachie
