Fast Forward to Spring/Summer 08 Courtesy of Premier Vision
The Spring/Summer 08 Colours
As springboards to vivacity, neutrals position themselves as allies and not essentials. They multiply in nuance, tone and value to gain in neatness, and to find the accuracy of colour associations. As rare and indispensable punctuations, darks underline luminosity. They reveal their constructive restraint with precision, and combine in measured opposition. As vectors of energy, brights initiate motion. They proclaim their affirmed temperaments and position themselves as inciters of contrasts, to stimulate neutrals and enliven soft tones. As dynamising sparks, acidic tones play the role of agitators. They exalt clarity in colours, and manifest their tangy freshness to upset darks, activate light shades and tease brights. As an energising fulcrum, yellow infuses tones, brightening up beiges, lightening greys and wooing purplish shades to incite grating complementarities.
Fabrics of the Season…
The universe of fantasy and seduction is written into a resolutely contemporary aesthetic. The science of behaviours luxuriously reveals the power of extremes. Slim and generously ample lines are united, an exaggerated materiality emerges alongside fineness, fluidity aligns stiffness, and decoration is combined with plains. Synthetic or artificial fibres as well as stretch attract silks toward sportier, or more technical, visuals. Shine is boldly manifested, seizing on the nobility of silk reflections. Decors are contemporary, and affirm strong personalities, through decidedly graphic prints and jacquards, along with unusual lace and embroidery.
Decors: powerful or delicate, decors take an affirmed, extreme stand, with
On the one hand decors open themselves with generosity and determination towards a freehand or geometric abstraction, with thickened lines, undulating solids pictorial strokes. On the other hand, patterns play on the extreme refinement of discretion with imperceptible “freehand” embroideries, and subtle lace and jacquards with a sensitive geometry.
Shine affirms itself boldly through dazzling sequins, pearls and crystals, mirror-like glazes on embroideries, laces or prints.
In an energetic version, nature joyously blooms in floral embroideries and lace, in marvellous gardens.
Surfaces are moving, with rigorous pleats, haphazard volumes, exuberant rustling and charming trinkets.
Summer jackets and coats: consistency, generous volumes or light weights with technical accents.
Quite neat and structured, plains draw inspiration from a home furnishings spirit with enlarged basket-weaves, raffia matting weaves, square piquÃ©s and supple jacquards.
Shine inserts itself from time to time to brighten jacquards and tweeds.
For architecturally structured coats, duchesse satins, taffetas and failles are given density and solidity, and shot through with synthetic fibres.
Lightweight silks adopt a technical crunch, making way for a sporty spirit into sophisticated products.
Dresses and ensembles: Patently modernised, silks and summer wools grow more energetic and relaxed.
Structure and transparency combine, with couture organdies and organzas, translucent and puffy linen and silk blends.
In cottons or linens, cut-yarn patterns draw subtle opacities, and lace and embroideries ally rawness with delicacy.
Surfaces capture light with metallic, iridescent or glazed aspects that magnify plains and jacquards. Impeccably smooth and elasticised satins boldly gleam, or, in a more relaxed spirit, feature linen blends.
Fluidity is accentuated to the point of draping, with creamy knits and matt, often stretch, crÃªpes. In silky or cottony blends, candy stripes brighten daywear with floaty or fitted lines.
Small pieces: either women’s shirtings or small jewel-like items.
Cottons, linens and ramie flirt with ethereality, and are plain or elaborated, open-worked.
Cultivating their precious natures, light and stretch satins are fluid and sheathing.
Silks, viscoses and cupro are caressing and springy, knits are runny or finely crÃªpey.
Shine stands out in chiffons, knits, voiles and end-and-ends sparkling with light.
The distinction universe proves to be radically urban, allying chic perfection with an invigorating nobility. The fineness and density of suitings are magnified by perfect structures, either completely light or with a quite material feel. Formality is inscribed in motion, stretch and man-made fibres are inserted in precise doses to suggest clothing that is floaty, crunchy or sculpted close to the body. Men’s suitings flaunt light colours and patterns are so closely set as to border on semi-plains. Women’s suitings opt for lightness and fluidity. Shirtings play the usual disruptive element, while preserving their elegance, and knits pursue their message of refinement for small, unquestionably urban items.
Trenches and dusters: on the one hand, a magnified naturalness via dense double cottons with neatly drawn weaves for impeccably matt and architectural coats. On the other hand, technicality allies with lightness. Pure or synthetic-blend suitings are elegant, and finely firm cottons are waterproof, thanks to treatments undetectable to the eye or hand. Truly coated or waxed linens and wools show off a lacquered shine and outdoorsy visuals.
Jackets: linen takes a strong stand in jacketings with a generous thickness, quite urban or British-style patterns, and neat finishings. In light version, linen gains in lustre and suppleness. Suitings with hollow checks naturally favour sport jackets.
Strengthening their presence, compact knits and double knits combine perfect hold and cottony freshness.
Men’s and women’s suits: an accrued stretch energises formal looks.
The nobility and fineness of cottons and wools are optimised by natural stretch, or blended with elastane. Compact and invigorating micro-piquÃ© cottons, also stretch, modernise and feminise a chic tennis spirit.
Elegant and discreet shine lightens semi-plain, chinÃ© and end-and-end suitings, with almost metallic reflections. Visibly silky blends, lustrous mohairs and impeccable satins also subtly gleam. Linen and cotton surfaces are smoothed and glazed thanks to viscose or polyamide blends.
In womenswear, fluidity is either weighty, with freshened, supple viscose or cupro suitings, or lively, with translucent crÃªpes and wools.
Ultra-urban and refined, linen imposes itself in blends incorporating wool for suitings.
In a highly controlled natural spirit, cotton surfaces are barely disturbed by light slubs or discreet micro-weaves.
Small knit pieces: mercerised cotton jerseys aim for greater lightness and neatness, up to the point of transparent voiles. For polos, refined and lustrous linen showcase a fibrous perfection.
Shirtings: extra chic patterns invigorated by bold colours and updated grounds.
Shirtings lose a certain weight, with percales, voiles, translucent linens and plays on open-working. They show off a lustrous perfection with satins and matt/shine patterns.
Whites are brilliant, either monochrome and pure or very graphic and luminous, alternating thick stick stripes. Neutrals and vitamin-packed tones are boldly combined, orangey tones and yellows move into the classic shirting universe, and regimental graphics display a fondness for red. Summer dark shirtings contrast with lighter-coloured suitings.
Linings: stretch, colourful, ultra-shiny or fancy, they lend an added note of personalisation.
The casual universe moves toward a chic and structured cottony neatness. It integrates technicality and dynamism with natural/synthetic alliances and stretch materials, and also shows a tendency towards environmentally- responsible products. Weights and behaviours are precisely elaborated and targeted: either clearly material with neat firm fabrics or supple linen-y fabrics, or truly lightened and dense for dress weights or light trousers. Knits and shirtings flaunt energetic or graphic fancies. Prints and shine, either metallic or synthetic, joyfully emerge in this dynamic universe.
Sleeved items and outerwear: contrasting weights and exacerbated shine.
Materiality and weight with very dense cottons, solidified finishings and polyurethane coatings to impeccably stiffen and structure. By contrast, waterproof treatments grow lighter, favouring a peachskin softness or a papery crunch.
Bold shine integrates casualwear, linen is laminated with metal, and cotton is allied with polyamide for fresh handles and smooth shine.
Trousers: relaxed with refined personality.
Cottons show off perfect surfaces, lacking roughness. Weaves are impeccably drawn, with basket wovens, twills and ottomans showing off plays on yarn-dyed mini two-tones.
Handles are subtly softened with micro-sanded finishings or very light emerisings.
The use of viscose, lyocell or cupro in cottons and linens combines softness and dryness, marrying suppleness and consistency.
Linens and cotton/linen blends grow more sophisticated, irregularities are attenuated, weaves are dense, a workwear spirit grows refined with chambrays and yarn dyes.
The natural gleam and chicness of mercerised satins meets the glazed light of
synthetics, either in blends or in coatings.
Denims: neatness, an accentuated stretch and lighter weights that flirt with 8 oz. even for trousers. Linen infiltrates denim, particularly to dry-out handles and enliven behaviours.
In an urban spirit, blacks, greys and whites play on shadow and light. High-performance stretch fabrics can now resist chlorinated washings thanks to the use of specific fibres.
Knits: highly-elaborated behaviours to more closely follow fashion.
More stretch for closer-to-the-body lines; more cellulosic fibres for a creamy, truly sportswear, suppleness; compact, firmly-set non-brushed knits for jackets and blousons; transparencies to layer. Stripes are graphic, energetic, and combine neatly with terries.
Shirtings: freshness with patterns that have soft or acid-toned colourways, handkerchief checks enlarged on light grounds, discreet seersuckers or lightly washed finishings.
Weights grow lighter for a feminine-style semi-transparency.
Decors: casualwear prints show themselves to be striking and joyously coloured.
Florals are reinterpreted in layers, rhythmical and graphic, or enlarged for a mid-summer feeling.
A more spontaneous dynamism, for hastily sketched naive looks and freehand poetic signage.
The pulsation universe confirms its role as a “pathfinder,” as a laboratory of ideas, at the service of products in tune with fashion expectations. Moving transversally from active sports to lingerie, stretch is heightened for closer-to- the-body lines, or to ally comfort with extreme protection. The targeted use of elastane in highly technical fabrics, cutting-edge active sports products and knits with a beefed-up elasticity are directly part of fashion trends. A universe that also dedicates its research to natural-performant alliances. Natural fibres combine with high synthetics, and 100% naturals are “boosted” by performance features through bondings or coatings while maintaining a highly urban or relaxed look. Shine displays the technical nature of fibres, from bodywork metallics to a boldly synthetic shine.
Outdoors: outdoor products gain in preciousness in weaves like satins and twills, in behaviours, which can be crunchy as in taffetas, and in metallic or lacquered visuals.
Windproof functions are developed on light bases combining fineness and wind-resistance or on sturdier multilayers. High-resistance fabrics take on more fashionable visuals together with a generous materiality.
Fast-dry or climatic knits are enlivened by geometric microstructures.
Swimwear: beachwear and the bathing universe favour a gaudy exuberance with a demonstrative gaiety. Ultra-shiny satins and charmeuse, dynamic geometrics in matt/lacquered tone-on-tone, graphic and stylised floral prints on knits or wovens, flashy stretch lace. Thanks to the use of chorine-resistant, elastane fibres and dyes swimsuits for the pool gain in quality.
Lingerie: influenced by silk, knits and wovens are illuminated with a plain or jacquarded satiny shine. Second skins are creamy, or feature a sheathing translucent fineness, with chiffons and voiles. Laces are airily fine with almost ghost-like decoration.
Eco-Respect: protection of the environment is confirmed as a priority in research. Organic or fair-trade cottons for sportswear and denim, quickly biodegradable fabrics for high-performance casualwear. Renewable and environmentally-responsible natural fibres such as algae, soy, and bamboo, make strides in all markets.
All trend information and images courtesy of Premier Vision. The next edition of PV is scheduled for 18 -21 September 2007 http://www.premierevision.fr/