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Jewellery Watch Spring/Summer 2005





African: Natural and chunky African inspired jewellery will be big for summer 2005. Look out for piled-on large bangles, bold chokers and pendants, wooden beads, reptile skin effects, hand-painted designs, leather thongs, feathers and bones.


As seen at: Michiko Koshino, Karen Walker, Justin Oh, Dolce & Gabbana and Cacharel. 


                 Dolce & Gabbana 


Vintage: Chandelier style earrings, brooches, bracelets and rings will continue the vintage feel well into next year. A variety of stones from Venetian glass and turquoise to diamante and pearl will add to the eclectic mood of the moment.


As seen at: Collette Dinnigan, Chanel, Ralph Lauren and Lanvin.


Ralph Lauren               Lanvin


Arts and Crafts: In amongst the wooden beads and leather thongs there are plenty of arty influences: chunky shapes, simple motifs, contrasting materials and a hand-finished feel.


As seen at: Anna Sui, Etro, Antonio Marras, Prada and Giles Deacon.


Anna Sui            Byblos   


Charms: Charms have been rediscovered over the last few seasons and the appeal has been across the board, from Jade Jagger’s exclusive designs for Garrard, right through to cheap and cheerful varieties at Miss Selfridge. This season charms go on a cultural trip, stopping off in places like – India, Morocco and the Far East and end up decorating bracelets, necklaces, bags and belts.  


Charm Bracelet by Designer Divas 


Nature: Coral, shells, butterflies, feathers and polished stones are just a handful of elements borrowing from nature this season. Flowers – always a favourite for spring and this season they’ve blossomed to full proportions. At Giles Deacon, accessories designer – Johanna Mills created large exotic corsages out of feathers, at Marni leather blooms were strung around necklaces, while Roksanda Ilincic went all out with her outsized fabric corsages and hats.  


Bora Aksu            Set by Designer Divas


Deep Cuff’s & Bangles: Plain deep cuffs look particularly good with all{mosimage} those three-quarter-length sleeves knocking about, as seen at Calvin Klein and Costume National. For a more dramatic effect bangles are piled-on in multiples a la Dolce and Gabbana, Roberto Cavalli and Blugirl.




Other trends to watch out for:


         Quirky Brooches.


         Graphic pendants.


         Hair Jewellery. {mosimage}


         Long strands layered up.


         Coloured stones such as – amethyst, amber, aquamarine and peridot.


         Embellished belts and collars.


         Jewelled key-chains.


         Mixing up styles and materials.


Jewellery News & Views: {mosimage}


         Men’s jewellery now accounts for 10% of the jewellery market. Traditionally men’s jewellery would include the likes of – cufflinks, tiepins and signet rings, these days however, choice is key and men’s jewellery lines include a broad range of rings, bracelets, necklaces and earrings. The latest statistics show a substantial growth at both the upper and lower levels of the market.


         If Louis Vuitton and Prada get their way next season men will be adding brooches to their jewellery collections. Louis Vuitton showed monogrammed teddies and cutesy turtles, while Prada pinned brightly coloured planes, boats and seahorses onto her male models. {mosimage}


         Consumer Intelligence Company – Mintel says that there is plenty of room for growth in the UK jewellery market. Despite the general economic climate there is consumer demand for fashion led jewellery items. While this demand is being met at the younger end of the market – Mintel research shows that the jewellery industry needs to become more innovative and fashion-conscious if it wants to retain its share of retail sales.  


         Precious Preferences: Generally yellow gold and silver have mass appeal. Platinum and{mosimage} white gold have become the preferred choice for wedding and engagement rings. While silver is still the top option with the younger consumer.


         New to the scene: Djurdja Watson adds that touch of individuality to an outfit with her handmade jewellery. Stylish and unique her range is currently available to buy at the So Aei Kei Boutique, 357, Portobello Road, London W10. Prices range from £10 – £160.


         Vintage gems have proved highly popular of late with repro-antique styles cashing in on the look. High Street retailer Mikey is doing the business with its glitzy Hollywood inspired collection. Swarovski crystals add bling to Art-Deco shapes offering party glamour at affordable prices.


Up and Coming European Jewellery/Fashion Trade Shows: 


JANUARY {mosimage}


06 -08 MESSE MUSTERMARKT und BIJOUTEX Munich, Germany.


07 – 10 INNOWA EINKAUFSTAGE – Dortmund, Germany.


13 – 17 BISUTEX – Ifema – Parque Ferial Juan Carlos I, Madrid, Spain.


14 – 17 ALFA & OMEGA – MEC, Peania, Athens, Greece.


15 – 17 CDH HAMBURGER EINKAUFSTAGE – Hamburg, Germany.


16 – 19 ORNARIS – Zurich, Switzerland.


16 – 18 TOP DRAWER Spring 2005{mosimage} – Earls Court One, London, UK.


21 – 24 MACEF – Fiera Milano, Italy.


21 – 23 MILK & HONEY – Berlin, Germany.


23 – 26 THE HIGHLAND TRADE FAIR – Glasgow, Scotland.


23 – 25 WOMEN’S AND MEN’SWEAR BRUSSELS – Brussels, Belgium.


28 – 31 ECLAT DE MODE – Paris Expo – Porte de Versailles, France.


29 – 31 FEMMINA – MEC, Peania, Athens, Greece.


FEBRUARY {mosimage}


06 – 10 NEC SPRING FAIR – Birmingham, UK.


10 – 13 CIFF – Bella Center, Copenhagen, Denmark.


11 – 15 AMBIENTE – Frankfurt, Germany.


13 – 15 PURE – Olympia, London, UK.


14 – 20 STOCKHOLM MODEVECKA – Stockholm, Sweden


17 – 20 MOTEUGEN – Oslo, Norway.


20 – 22 NEC MODA – Birmingham, UK.


25 – 28 MVM – MILANOVENDEMODA – Fiera Milano, Italy.



By JoJo Iles



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