Trends in Fabrics for Spring/Summer 2006
16-03-2005
The focus for next S/S 2006 is naturalness. The season capitalises on fineness and lightness in fabrics, revealing contrasts and illuminating woven colour.
The preference is to see the true identities of linen, cotton and silk and the treatment of colour that is both bold and subtle.
Fabrics have a sense of weightless virtuosity, through the use of open weaves and the fineness of fibres allowing free movement. Rumpled looks adorn the finest fabrics, whilst rippling lends motion allowing fluidity and light creating almost tracing paper.
There is a high definition of buoyancy, as fabrics will be light together with the comfort of stretch to grow closer to the body and ready–to–shape and reinforce. The look is for naturally dry and supple, as if to sublimate laziness, seeing the clearly visible texture of raffia, papers and crepes.
Fabrics will be naturally marked with neat and drawn irregularities through being over-dyed, coated and then washed out. Blurry polychromatic visuals create irregular aspects and refined shaded effects, with irregularities emerging in chines and mark variations in tones.
Voiles and batistes are combined with the weightlessness of knits and laces and in contrast, semi-transparency in delicate burnt-outs and cut-yarn jacquards.
Fabrics are naturally matte, with cottony fancies, lace and jacquards combining floral and vegetal designs. Detailing on the fabric is condensed to create the pleasure of fullness and space.
The overexposure of fabrics naturally whitens and attenuates white in two or three toned floral decorations. Through idealising nature with imaginary flowers and structures, it intensifies the visible, with prints being not so simple and vivid. Fabrics see the intensity of full colour and the visible, affirming contrast and strengthening oppositions to the extreme.
Stripes, prints, embroideries and jacquards are intense in full colour and weaves will also reinforce the opposition using romantic flora.
Through the refinement of linen, double weaves, enlarged weaves and matte jacquards, fabrics will be weighty.
Lace, embroideries, silks and linens are dusted with metal fibre, which adds a flavour of sparkle and a taste of the stunning. The natural fabrics carry an air of sophistication, through being veiled in silver and bathed in tender gold, entangling the brilliance of the spark with the rawness of naturally matte fabrics.
Brief Overview
The Appearance
- Irregularities
- Light
- Multi-coloured
- Neat
- Smooth
- Transparent / Semi-transparent
- Washed-out
- Wrinkled
The Details
- Checks
- Irregular stripes
- Prints
- Romantic florals
- Stripes – play on weaves
The Structures
- Chiffon
- Crepe
- Jacquard
- Jersey
- Plain weave
- Satin
- Twill
The Treatments
- Colour coating
- Metallic
- Over-dyed
- Rippled
- Washed Out
- Wrinkled
Rachel Costa