Tomorrow’s People

 

Last February London Fashion Week rounded-off with a taster of the design talents of tomorrow. The hour-and-a-half long show displayed a broad variety of collections full-to-the-brim of fresh ideas and unique design details. Catwalk shows, are admittedly, glamorous affairs with styling, music and models to encapsulate that all important vision. The chance to inspect these inspiring pieces for more than a fleeting second, however, is one not to be missed.

 

Open to press, buyers and industry professionals only, the MA Saint Martins static show is a quietly tucked away, guarded affair. After wandering around the college and reading the work placement boards (Gareth Pugh is looking for help with his creations for the up-and-coming Kylie tour) I finally find the exhibition.

 

As I walk in I am pounced on by a couple of student/guards – “This is a private show, do you have an appointment?” I am given the look – the once over – maybe I’m not dressed right? They think I’m a student in need of inspiration for my latest project. After assuring them that I mean no harm and that I was actually invited to the show I am left to look around at leisure. Several students try to gain entry after me, they are flatly told that the exhibition is for trade only and are swiftly ushered out of the door.

 

The show is a combination of womenswear, menswear, knitwear and textile design. Not all the students get to show their designs on the catwalk and yet the standard, as you’d expect from a MA show, is high all round. Joseph Li was one such designer that did not show at LFW and yet produced an exquisite eveningwear collection for women. Using a predominantly black palette his smudgy patterns on supple leathers and voluminous sleeves had a touch of Giles Deacon-esque elegance.

 

{mosimage}A firm favourite from the catwalk show was another womenswear collection by Victoria Roe. The return to a more sleek and lean silhouette is inevitable after seasons of floaty boho styles. Victoria’s collection looked elegant and fresh in muted tones of grey, pale pink and white. She combined slinky jerseys with rubber panelled sections – sounds strange but it works beautifully – and just goes to show what a versatile material rubber is. {mosimage}

 

Keeping to the ‘less is more’ ethic – Pascal Fini stuck with one bold shade for his entire collection – pillar box red. Silhouettes were simple and fuss-free which showed-off his razor-sharp tailoring skills to the max. Knitwear also proved to be very strong with this years grads. Louise Goldin created a chain mail look with the combination of knits, chain-stitches and plaits. While Joanna Sclater formed unexpected curvy circular shapes fashioned into sleeves and design details for her knitwear collection.

 

                

 

{mosimage}Sophia Amanzi-George got into a spot of bother with her African inspired collection. Heavy on embroidered embellishments Sophia used some bold printed fabric that featured the famous double C Chanel logo. Chanel was not impressed and threatened legal action. Fortunately, Sophia has been let off the hook as she didn’t actually create the fabric – it was bought from Brixton market. The inclusion of the C logo was supposed to provide a humorous take on the use of fake labels in bling culture. The outcome of the dispute has resulted in Sophia giving up the piece plus all related sketches and images. One piece down and yet her collection remains strong with her generous smock and tunic dresses, bold colours and thigh-high legwear.

 

While the womenswear and textile graduates experiment with colour and scale the menswear collections are altogether more subdued. Palettes are neutral but design ideas are evident – albeit in the subtle sense. Knitwear designer Xavier Brisoux provided the choice of sleeves – or not – the sleeves become ties when the piece is left as a tank top. Carola Euler, meanwhile, showed a striking half jacket half trench coat creation along with lean-cut trousers and nipple revealing necklines.

 

                         

 

So many great collections and so little time, I was so absorbed with the designs that I hadn’t noticed that I was the last visitor left in the room. I quickly checked out the remaining designers. Psychedelic pink swirls from textiles designer – Matthew Moore, bold stripes, florals and a ripple riot of colour from Lee Cleal and chain motifs, voluminous jerseys and antique-look prints from Harrods award winner – Sarah-Ann Craven.

 

               

 

 

 

By JoJo Iles