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London Fashion Week – Day 4: Music to Watch the Girls go by


London Fashion Week – Day 4 17th February 2006




Inspired by old glamorous photographs of her mother (a 1960’s fashion and advertising model), a multitude of textures and simple shapes such as squares, circles and rectangles – Jessica Ogden brings us ‘Annabella.’ Think Parisian girls in pinafore dresses, cosy knits and baby-doll dresses in a tasteful palette of slate, navy, cream and black. The beauty lies in the rich textures and manipulation of the fabrics. Details include pin-tucking, gathers, pleating and reworking. Annabella has Jessica Ogden’s unique stamp all over it – a great sassy collection that I personally feel is her most accomplished to date.




While my mind questioned the sudden step up in security at the Royal Academy in walks Princess Michael of Kent with a rather surly body guard. The Princess herself was looking rather chic and relaxed in camel and black classic staples. What with royalty, Anna Wintour, Isabella Blow and Nick Rhodes in the audience you’d think that Allegra Hicks was showing on-schedule but no – she was ‘off’ – and really does all that matter when you’ve got connections like these? As for her collection the mood was all about bohemian feminine shapes that featured luxurious patterns and fabrics. Colour combinations such as turquoise and chocolate, along with grey and gold worked beautifully together as did Allegra’s graphic prints. From kaftans worn as over-layers to silk jersey dresses this collection addressed comfort as well as style.



Allegra Hicks Show Princess Michael in the front row




{mosimage}There are many elements that go towards a successful fashion show – music being one of them. After-all it’s the chance for the designer to show the collection as his or her vision – rather than on a bunch of hangers in a showroom. Invited first-timers Noir certainly made an impression with their choice of music. Sung live and direct from The Tiffin Boy’s Choir was lyrics from the likes of Portishead and Patti Smith. Meanwhile, models strutted in killer heels and Noir lived up to its name with a deep, dark collection entitled ‘The Raven Ball.’ Glamorous, luxurious and incredibly gothic there is a play on the masculine/feminine theme combined with the drama of eveningwear. Favouring a lean silhouette the Noir team reworked the rock ’n’ roll suit into razor sharp tailoring in top-notch fabrics. By night the lines soften with feathers, chiffons and silks while inky blue, smoky grey and surface textures brought depth to the predominantly black collection. 




Giles got the fashion pack singing his praises once again with his couture-esque collection that had a youthful edge. Packing a punch was his use of shimmering metallics, striking silhouettes and arts inspired prints. Influenced by the paintings of Ellsworth Kelly, Giles successfully used pattern and line to create some incredibly photogenic designs – no doubt the fashion glossies are already queuing up. A-line shapes along with masculine pants and voluminous wool coats were all present and correct while I suspect it’s his stunning floor-length evening gowns that will gain press coverage galore for him. Elsewhere there was chain-mail, leopard spots and graphic cut ‘n’ paste stripes – a factory of ideas shown on the likes of Trish Goff, Lily Cole and Carmen Kass.  



PPQ are also big on music, from dressing musicians to signing them up, yes talk about fingers in many pies. Back to the fashion – and getting an evening slot on the schedule has proved a good move for this design duo, the place is packed and their good old mate Sadie Frost has turned up to cheer them on. After so much black PPQ blasted the eyes with block colour and multi-tonal stripes. Lampshade skirts, baby-doll dresses and cutesy shorts arrived in shiny orange, red, lime green and yes, some black too. Meanwhile, the guys were kind of gawky in skinny denims and girly cut trench coats. Fun and playful this collection entitled ‘She Sees’ was all about optimism and youth.





Installation by Zoe Bradley at OnIOff




By JoJo Iles




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