Menswear Trends A/W 2007/08
Some looks on the A/W catwalks gave the impression to be more of a sample size than made to fit. Itâ€™s certainly not a new thing, but oversized cardigans or ultra-long sleeves that cover the fingertips were very common at many shows, including Burberry, J. Lindeberg and Thom Browne. The 7/8 trousers went from no-go to it-piece. While tops were a bit too long, the trousers were tight and slightly too short. The alternative is a Bermuda short suit, the revolutionary look of the summer. As simple as the â€˜wrong size approachâ€™ sounds you still have to try the clothes on, as it is key for this look to find the right balance; if the top part is heavy choose slim pants, if the sweater is tight go for trousers that are loose and relaxed.
Formerly perceived as being womenâ€™s territory only, shiny textures are a must for next season. The options range from transparent raincoats to metallic shimmering bomber jackets and accessories like silver gloves. Alexander McQueen sent the models down the catwalk in fluorescent waterproof designs while the models at Ann Demeulemeester wore rain boots. Other designers that embraced the trend were D&G, Gucci and Jil Sander. However, some looks might only work on the catwalk, as the copious amount of glitz is too much for the everyday look. For those who want to follow the trend, but want to avoid being mistaken for a mascot promoting candy bars â€“ dark colours also come in glossy textures. Recommendation – only one glossy piece per look should do the trick.
From colour to colour
The classic dark colour palette is here again, but not only black; top choices for winter are dark blues, greys, greens and berry reds. The contrasting style consists of light neutral colours like white, cream hues and silver grey as seen on Etro and HermÃ¨s. Important for both looks â€“ do not mix them, itâ€™s either dark or light from tip to toe! For those who want to add a bit of colour bright accents in cobalt blue, mandarin, purple, metallics and green are a good choice. Prada and Louis Vuitton also showed rainbow effects on their designs, a washed-out colour gradient. Or choose one of the pattern mixes seen on the catwalks of Comme des GarÃ§ons, Missoni and Dries van Noten.
It hasnâ€™t only been the summer of accessorizing; this trend carries straight in to A/W. From man-bags, mostly in the form of shoppers, with some exceptions as the menâ€™s version of the clutch, to silver metallic driving gloves that complete every outfit. As for the head, there is a variety of accessories available this time; melon hats, cylinders, the burglar-look as shown by Bruno Pieters, Costume National and John Galliano. There is also a nod to a more androgynous way of accessorizing; bejewelled broaches, headbands and waist belts. Even if men donâ€™t really have a small waist, this trend makes it possible to create the illusion.
There certainly is more to menswear than sporty looks, business suits and dark colours. The A/W 2007/08 collections show a wonderful spectrum of alternatives.
For those planning ahead and want to grab the best picks at the summer sales it is worth taking a look at the S/S 2008 catwalks. New York Fashion Week is on this week, Milano Moda Uomo 23-27 June and Paris Fashion Week 28 June until 1 July.
By Christa Catharina Muller